Microblog

Rode a rural train to the end of the line, then boarded a rural bus that took me all the way to the sparsely populated tip of the Muroto Peninsula. Climbed to temple 24 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage. Now, I’m settled into a ryokan, a traditional old-fashioned inn, bathed, wearing a yukata, ready for dinner. Later, I’ll be crashing out in this room on a futon on the tatami mats.

Whenever I fly west out of Tokyo I always select a window seat on the right side of the plane hoping for clear weather. Today I was not disappointed.

This morning (Friday) I’ll fly from Tokyo to Kochi where I’ll stay tonight. Tomorrow (Saturday) I’ll head down the Muroto Peninsula (blue rectangle) for a few days.

With permission, stuck my head in the cockpit where the three pilots were performing pre-flight checks. “Come in,” they said. I asked for, and got, a trading card! (This is a service that Delta doesn’t advertise.) As a bonus, I chatted up the gate agent and got a seat set aside for off-duty pilots. (I won’t be using the curtains.) Please don’t judge me, I’m a geek!

Walked through the well-maintained airside gardens at Honolulu HNL, with sections reflecting multicultural Hawaii and its historical connections with Asia. These include gardens dedicated to China, Japan, and Hawaii itself. The scents of vegetation mingle with the occasional whiff of aviation fuel.

This afternoon (Wednesday) Dwight flies home, arriving Minneapolis early Thursday morning, and I fly to Tokyo, arriving Thursday evening. In Tokyo, I’ll check into an airport terminal hotel. Friday morning, I’ll fly to Kochi on Shikoku, one of Japan’s four main islands.

At Stüssy, only a few customers were allowed in at a time. Those waiting patiently in line were mainly Asian, reflecting the demographics of Hawaii tourism. Nearly half of all visitors to Hawaii come from Asia, a trend that began with the early Japanese settlements in the 1870s. Perhaps this explains why we had the best tonkatsu, ever, in Honolulu.

At the Bishop Museum, we traced the Polynesian diaspora leading to the discovery and settlement of the Hawaiian Islands around 1,000 years ago. In the planetarium we learned about their sophisticated navigation techniques which relied on the stars and other natural elements, rather than instruments.

Our adventure today combined city bus travel with walking. At the (Queen) Liliʻuokalani Botanical Garden, Dwight located three trees he’ll feature in his blog. The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, situated within a volcanic crater, offered a serene atmosphere and spectacular views, while also serving as a poignant reminder of the Pacific War’s battles.

On my walk: a Baskin-Robbins in a strip mall. As a teenager, former President Obama scooped here. Nearby are his place of birth (Kapiolani Medical Center for Women and Children) and the apartment where he lived with his single mom.

Visited ‘Iolani Palace, once home to Hawaii’s monarchs. In 1893, the reign of the beloved Queen Liliʻuokalani came to an end when the sons of missionaries played a significant role in illegally overthrowing the Hawaiian Kingdom, disenfranchising the native people.

Hula, a tradition that tells stories passed down for generations, was banned in the 19th century by missionaries who dismissed Hawaiian culture as heathen. Today, we watched Hawaiian hula performers who had participated in an annual international festival of performers from across Polynesia.

After a beach walk, we headed back along a public beach access path located between two hotels. This narrow passage was lined with surfboard racks that surfers can rent.

Today’s adventure was a delightful loop hike through the jungly/rainforest hills above Honolulu. The trail, accessible by bus, combined the Kanealole, Makiki Valley, and Maunalaha Trails for a complete escape from the city.

Held on tight during a morning coffee cruise on the Vida Mia, a motor yacht built in 1929. It has a storied past, including serving as a coastguard vessel during World War II.

A longer walk than planned took us to a semi-industrial area to a place where beer is unlikely to run out, the holy of holies of Waikiki Brewing Company. Aloha Blonde for him, 808 Pale (a nod to Hawaii’s area code) for me, nachos with pulled smoked pork to share. A number 13 bus whisked us back to our VRBO.