“Finally, grape tomatoes at the Asian supermarket!” I thought. A closer inspection, however, revealed they were actually kumquats. Tomatoes aren’t really a staple in much of Asian cuisine. On the walk home, I couldn’t think of a single Japanese dish featuring them. Back home, I looked it up and confirmed that tomatoes only started to catch on in Japan in the 20th century.
Category: East Asia
A journey of water
Continued planning a possible multi-day hike across Greater Tokyo, a metropolis of 37 million. My route follows the Tamagawa Aqueduct, which dates back to 1654 in the feudal era. Spanning roughly 30 miles, I plan to start in the countryside at the Tama River. Though the city has been leveled by fire several times, including twice in the 20th century, I hope that by following the water, I’ll catch glimpses of the past that survived the flames.
Kindle above the couch
Day 3 nursing a cold: at least it’s not COVID. It’s a good day to lie on the couch and read Clouds Above the Hill, set in Meiji-era Japan. There’s an entire museum in Matsuyama devoted to this book; I’ve actually visited it, though only because it was designed by architect Tadao Ando and features a lovely cafe. At the time, the significance of the story was lost on me, but today I can escape my cold and lose myself in the history.
Exploring Tokyo’s layers
Visited the Minneapolis Institute of Art to view Utagawa Hiroshige’s “One Hundred Famous Views of Edo” (1856). In 2011, artist Emily Allchurch photographed some of these same locations. I’m planning a multi-day hike across Tokyo that includes remnants of Tokyo when it was Edo (pre-1868). I’m collecting materials and layering historical maps over Google Maps. The city has faced destruction more than once, yet traces of its past remain.
Travel wabi-sabi
In a moment of boredom, I mapped out the Japanese prefectures I’ve visited (blue), many of them multiple times. While I’ve traveled through the yellow prefectures near Tokyo, I don’t count those. The younger me might’ve felt the need to visit every prefecture to ‘complete the set,’ but these days I embrace the imperfection: a bit of travel wabi-sabi.
Keeping track of time
It’s Tuesday evening in Tokyo, but it’s going to be a long Tuesday, 39 hours to be exact. We arrive Minneapolis Tuesday afternoon.
Great Buddha of Kamakura (1252)
Hiked the hills above the town of Kamakura. Descended into a busy town (today is a public holiday) where we checked out this bronze attraction, the Great Buddha of Kamakura (Daibutsu), cast in 1252. This Buddha resides in the pure land of perfect bliss, presumably unfazed by the constant flood of Instagram posts by earthly influencers.
“Cycle Around Japan”* Toyama Bay Edition
Rented bicycles and cycled along Toyama Bay on the Sea of Japan, enjoying views of the snow-covered Japan Alps. Stopped at a picnic table in the grounds of this shrine for a picnic lunch. *NHK (Japan’s public broadcaster) series we enjoy.
Our local haunt in Kanazawa
After a day of sightseeing, we returned to this Izakaya from last night. With just 14 seats, we were the only tourists among a bar full of friendly, local characters. Sumo wrestling played on the television, while the walls displayed sumo-themed photos and memorabilia. At one point the barman held up his phone so we could all sing Happy Birthday to an absent customer.
A day exploring Japanese design and architecture
We put together a day of exploring Japanese design and architecture. We traveled by bullet train from Kobe to Himeji (15 minutes) to wander through Himeji Castle’s grounds and Nishinomara Gardens. Back in Kobe, we visited the Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum, which showcases Japan’s excellence in wooden structures. Finally, at the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art, a building by Tadao Ando, we saw a special exhibition: “Living Modernity: Experiments in Housing 1920s-1970s.”