Microblog

I’m staying in Matsue on the northwest coast of Honshu. My project today was to hike trails on Mount Daisen in Daisen-Oki National Park. A train and a bus got me from Matsue to trailheads. Lots of steep climbs, magnificent fall colors, and occasional ancient temples and shrines.

Rapid footsteps and giggling behind me. Schoolgirl, now in front of me, directs me back towards a table. Shrieks of delight when I turn and walk to the table. To much applause and giggles, I buy a packet of cookies. Three teachers simultaneously take photos. Lots of goodbyes.

Cycled above the Seto Inland Sea on bridges and islands. In 2016 I did the whole Shimanami Kaido, 45 miles between two of Japan’s four main islands, Shikoku and Honshu on a creaky bicycle. These days, I take a scheduled bus or boat then cycle about half that, and can sit down comfortably afterwards.

Checked into Hotel Cycle (yet again, third time), Onomichi, in a repurposed warehouse on a wharf. You can cycle right up to the front desk, then leave your bike on a rack outside your room. To mitigate bicycle separation anxiety, you can hang your bike on a wall rack in your room. I’ll rent tomorrow.

Today’s picnic lunch, hiking an OLLE Course. Onigiri: rice, filled with pickled mustard greens, wrapped in nori (seaweed). Egg sandwich, tuna sandwich. Caramel custard. Pocari Sweat. Less than US$5 from one of Japan’s more than 50,000 wonderful konbini (convenience stores).

After a day of walking, gratefully steeped my feet in the volcanic warmth of an unusually long (100 meters) footbath. Watched a plume rising above Sakurajima, a volcano that regularly rains ash on the city of Kagoshima.

Hiked in Aso Kuju National Park with Mount Aso, Japan’s largest active volcano, smoking in the distance. A few years ago, I walked up to close to the edge of Mount Aso’s sulfurous crater. Today, it’s off-limits. The whole area is set in a huge caldera, 75-miles in circumference.

Visited Nanzo-in Temple, near Fukuoka. Here, the reclining Buddha, fully enlightened, enters Nirvana in death, released from cycles of rebirth. The bronze sculpture is 135 feet long. It was good to explore more human-scale temple features, and the lovely grounds on a hillside.

Took a ferry from Fukuoka to a rural island. Disposed of small change at a shrine: 15 coins worth 65 cents. In return, took an Omikuji, a fortune printed on a strip of paper. Mangled by Google Translate, it appeared to urge me to drown in color and alcohol, and be a little selfish.

Posted Bullet Train vs. Plane.

Explored a mountainous area north of Sendai by train, local bus, and foot. In Kakunodate I was interviewed, via an interpreter, by a reporter for the local newspaper. American tourists are few and far between. Further down the road, almost walked into a professional photo shoot.

Yodobashi electronics stores are often located next to main train stations. Each store is at least 215,000 sq ft; a typical Best Buy is just 38,000 sq ft. At Sendai’s store I set a goal to find something I didn’t realize I didn’t need, but left, overwhelmed.

Sendai, about 200 miles northeast of Tokyo, is my base for the next few days. From Sendai, rode a bullet train for 13 minutes, then rural trains to reach trails for some fall color hiking. The rural train line is in this photo.

Arrived Tokyo HND, late afternoon Thursday, off a thirteen-hour flight and a +14-hour time difference. Took rush hour trains to a downtown hotel and an early night. Japan only reopened to independent travelers two weeks ago, so I’m expecting to see few westerners on my travels.

On board UA881 en route to Tokyo HND.

Cycled to the highest point in Minneapolis, Deming Heights Park. At one point we dismounted and pushed.