Microblog

Trains were cancelled because of high winds, so I had to change my route to Oita today. I describe the replacement journey in a blog post, A Surprise “Sea Cruise”.

It’s pouring rain all day today (Wednesday) here in Takamatsu, so I’m taking advantage of my Japan Rail Pass. Since the pass removes the financial disincentive to travel, I’m relocating to Oita, which has sunny skies this week and is close to a couple of OLLE hiking courses. The journey is 360 miles, much of it by bullet train.

I mistakenly ended up at what I thought was Temple 83. Buddhist temples often incorporate Shinto elements, but this particular place felt excessively Shinto, with a plethora of kami (deities, spirits, etc.) on display. The vibe was almost like a scene straight out of an anime theme park. Eventually, I realized the temple was right next door. Oops!

Stitched together a journey along the less-traveled east coast of the Muroto Peninsula and beyond to Takamatsu. Three local buses on a road hugging the spectacular coastline, a local then an express train, ending at a pleasant hotel towering over the station plaza. Somehow I got in 10,000+ steps exploring between rides.

Checked out of the ryokan I’ve been staying at. I’m so glad the owner insisted I take a selfie with her! She’s a real firecracker–always manages to communicate with such humor. Speaking of humor, click through to check out a cartoon she drew to explain what was in front of me for breakfast.

On my walk to temples 25 and 26, I exchanged konnichiwa greetings with actual Shikoku 88 (temple) pilgrims. Two dragons guarded the purification basin at Kongochoji, temple 26.

Rode a rural train to the end of the line, then boarded a rural bus that took me all the way to the sparsely populated tip of the Muroto Peninsula. Climbed to temple 24 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage. Now, I’m settled into a ryokan, a traditional old-fashioned inn, bathed, wearing a yukata, ready for dinner. Later, I’ll be crashing out in this room on a futon on the tatami mats.

Whenever I fly west out of Tokyo I always select a window seat on the right side of the plane hoping for clear weather. Today I was not disappointed.

This morning (Friday) I’ll fly from Tokyo to Kochi where I’ll stay tonight. Tomorrow (Saturday) I’ll head down the Muroto Peninsula (blue rectangle) for a few days.

With permission, stuck my head in the cockpit where the three pilots were performing pre-flight checks. “Come in,” they said. I asked for, and got, a trading card! (This is a service that Delta doesn’t advertise.) As a bonus, I chatted up the gate agent and got a seat set aside for off-duty pilots. (I won’t be using the curtains.) Please don’t judge me, I’m a geek!

Walked through the well-maintained airside gardens at Honolulu HNL, with sections reflecting multicultural Hawaii and its historical connections with Asia. These include gardens dedicated to China, Japan, and Hawaii itself. The scents of vegetation mingle with the occasional whiff of aviation fuel.

This afternoon (Wednesday) Dwight flies home, arriving Minneapolis early Thursday morning, and I fly to Tokyo, arriving Thursday evening. In Tokyo, I’ll check into an airport terminal hotel. Friday morning, I’ll fly to Kochi on Shikoku, one of Japan’s four main islands.

At Stüssy, only a few customers were allowed in at a time. Those waiting patiently in line were mainly Asian, reflecting the demographics of Hawaii tourism. Nearly half of all visitors to Hawaii come from Asia, a trend that began with the early Japanese settlements in the 1870s. Perhaps this explains why we had the best tonkatsu, ever, in Honolulu.

At the Bishop Museum, we traced the Polynesian diaspora leading to the discovery and settlement of the Hawaiian Islands around 1,000 years ago. In the planetarium we learned about their sophisticated navigation techniques which relied on the stars and other natural elements, rather than instruments.

Our adventure today combined city bus travel with walking. At the (Queen) Liliʻuokalani Botanical Garden, Dwight located three trees he’ll feature in his blog. The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, situated within a volcanic crater, offered a serene atmosphere and spectacular views, while also serving as a poignant reminder of the Pacific War’s battles.

On my walk: a Baskin-Robbins in a strip mall. As a teenager, former President Obama scooped here. Nearby are his place of birth (Kapiolani Medical Center for Women and Children) and the apartment where he lived with his single mom.