Joined a docent-led art walk from the Auckland Art Gallery through downtown to the harbor. Since the group was all locals, we dove straight into the deep end. Our docent expertly connected several public installations by Māori artists to foundational myths and the origins of Aotearoa (New Zealand). (The audio receivers shown in the photo let us hear the commentary clearly over the bustle of the city.)
Category: Living
Communicating cultures
Attended a wonderful session at the Auckland War Memorial Museum featuring seven Māori, a model for how to educate people about an indigenous culture. Later, we took an audio tour of about a dozen artifacts scattered throughout the museum, each with a queer story to tell. Here, I’m learning about Labour Party representative Louisa Wall, who was wearing this dress when the Marriage Amendment Bill was passed in 2013.
Pride takes flight
Caught some stand-up comedy as part of Auckland’s Pride Month. The venue was wonderful: the Aviation Hall at the Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT). Our backdrop for the night was a 1945 Belfast-built flying boat, once used by the Royal New Zealand Air Force for maritime search and rescue.
One of Auckland’s peninsulas
The greater Auckland area is full of peninsulas, sometimes featuring scenic trails, a ferry port, and great lunch spots. Today was one of those days. We took a fast bus to the start of the trail at Takapuna then walked to Devonport through parks and residential areas. After a late lunch in Devonport, we caught the ferry back to Auckland. In this photo, we’re crossing a mangrove swamp.
Exploring our neighborhood: “The Point”
We’ve been in Auckland for ten days, and we finally walked onto the beach directly in front of our rental. Normally the tide has been in when we wanted to go exploring. Today we stuck to our Point Chevalier neighborhood rather than exploring further. Wandering along the peninsula, we found sandy stretches, parks, a great view of downtown, and yet another decent hole-in-the-wall cafe.
The long way to lunch
Ferry to Waiheke Island, followed by a coastal trek: steep up, steep down, repeat. Revived by a fine mid-afternoon lunch of grilled fish overlooking the water. Waiheke’s own Passage Rock Pinot Gris made the revival complete.
Tiny bananas and grand dames
Our urban walk took us to a different community center today, where we stocked up on veggies at the Sunday farmers market. A truck served a decent flat white and a long black, which we sipped while nibbling those tiny bananas you only find near where they’re grown. At lunch, the cafe seemed to be attracting characters straight out of British sitcom archives: namely, Mrs. Slocombe (Are You Being Served?) and Violet (Vicious).
Saturday in Auckland
A goal of our month in Auckland is to live like the locals do. Today, we walked a large loop that took us past a lively community center. In one room, there was a flower show; in another, a cake social. A cake social! We opted for a long black and a flat white served from a coffee truck. Later, at our neighborhood French cafe, the server asked if we had moved into the area. Their food is so good, we keep going back.
A landscape reframed
A massive cruise ship dwarfed the Island Direct Waiheke Island ferry. With 5,000 passengers suddenly in town for the day and a long holiday weekend approaching, the ferry lines were daunting. We quickly abandoned our plan to hike on Waiheke and instead trekked several miles back home, following the coastline for much of the way. Next week will be much quieter for our Waiheke hike.
Where the road ends
Our dead-end road leads to a coastal path, but high tide had other plans for us. We detoured a few blocks over to pick up the trail through parks and urban stretches. A few miles later, we looped back to the start via train and bus.