In Japan, we buy packs of these pourover single-serve coffee filters prefilled with coffee to use in hotel rooms. On Amazon, I buy boxes of empty single-serve filters to bring when traveling, filling them with locally bought ground coffee. Here, I’m using one left over from our recent trip. Just one example of how travel changes behavior. A more significant example is the ubiquitous washlets in Japan. We liked them so much, we installed TOTO washlets in our home.
Category: Living
Deconstructed turkey served with gratitude
We’re quietly celebrating this Thanksgiving, and the centerpiece of our meal is Dwight’s stuffed turkey thigh (minus the bone), finished with a rich gravy. The stuffing is equally rich, with about a dozen ingredients, including meaty porcini mushrooms. And we have plenty left over for another meal.
From Gold to Cold
The season’s first winter storm hit overnight, leaving three inches of snow. The hard wind brought windchill temperatures into the teens. Took this photo at Gold Medal Park, then back home I retreated under my blankie and asked AI to turn the G into a C.
Keeping track of time
It’s Tuesday evening in Tokyo, but it’s going to be a long Tuesday, 39 hours to be exact. We arrive Minneapolis Tuesday afternoon.
Great Buddha of Kamakura (1252)
Hiked the hills above the town of Kamakura. Descended into a busy town (today is a public holiday) where we checked out this bronze attraction, the Great Buddha of Kamakura (Daibutsu), cast in 1252. This Buddha resides in the pure land of perfect bliss, presumably unfazed by the constant flood of Instagram posts by earthly influencers.
“Cycle Around Japan”* Toyama Bay Edition
Rented bicycles and cycled along Toyama Bay on the Sea of Japan, enjoying views of the snow-covered Japan Alps. Stopped at a picnic table in the grounds of this shrine for a picnic lunch. *NHK (Japan’s public broadcaster) series we enjoy.
Our local haunt in Kanazawa
After a day of sightseeing, we returned to this Izakaya from last night. With just 14 seats, we were the only tourists among a bar full of friendly, local characters. Sumo wrestling played on the television, while the walls displayed sumo-themed photos and memorabilia. At one point the barman held up his phone so we could all sing Happy Birthday to an absent customer.
A day exploring Japanese design and architecture
We put together a day of exploring Japanese design and architecture. We traveled by bullet train from Kobe to Himeji (15 minutes) to wander through Himeji Castle’s grounds and Nishinomara Gardens. Back in Kobe, we visited the Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum, which showcases Japan’s excellence in wooden structures. Finally, at the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art, a building by Tadao Ando, we saw a special exhibition: “Living Modernity: Experiments in Housing 1920s-1970s.”
Wandering feudal streets without the crowds
Spent the day exploring Hagi’s feudal past, including wandering quiet streets of well-preserved houses in the merchant and samurai districts. Very few other tourists were in evidence; most visitors to Japan stick to the “Golden Route” (mainly Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, and Osaka via bullet trains), drawn by its popularity and the expectations set by social media. Hagi can only be accessed via slow routes, which guaranteed our quiet explorations today.
Spirited away to Hagi
We were reminded of that classic scene in Spirited Away as we boarded this rural train bound for Hagi. Unlike the Sea Train in the movie, we didn’t cross a flooded landscape, but the journey was magical nonetheless as we passed lovely views of the Sea of Japan dotted with tiny islands beyond the crenellated coastline. In Hagi, we’ll stay for two nights, sleeping in a traditional tatami room and being served multi-course dinners and breakfasts.