Microblog

Cycled the Hakusan-Tedori River Route, a rail trail near Kanazawa where I’m staying. In this photo I’d been cycling towards the Northern Japan Alps for a couple hours; rice paddies flank the trail. I hadn’t realized there was a gradual incline most of the way, so the return trip was faster.

Today I was a full-throttle tourist. There’s so much to see in Kanazawa, so many stories. It’s amazing that this major city escaped WW2 bombings. As a result, Edo-period (pre-1868) streets like this one still stand, making them national treasures.

I’m now in Kanazawa (blue dot) which will be my base for the next three days. Authorities are begging tourists to return after the January 1, 2024 earthquake devastated areas in the peninsula north of Kanazawa. Today I traveled 144 miles from Osaka via two bullet trains and four local trains. Along the way, I paused for a hike.

Rode on a new section of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line that opened two weeks ago between Tsuruga and Kanazawa. When completed, this line will offer an alternative bullet train route between Tokyo and Osaka.

“But it will be so much prettier when the cherry blossoms bloom any day now.” That’s the thinking I was planning on when I caught a bullet train to Himeji. This early 1600’s structure has escaped widespread destruction of castles in the 1870’s, WW2 bombing, and earthquakes. Despite being Japan’s most visited castle, there were no lines early this morning.

I’m now in Osaka, about 400 miles from Hakata (Fukuoka) where I was this morning. Along the way I broke the journey in Mihara where I put my backpack in a locker and walked five minutes to a ferry terminal on the Seto Inland Sea. I spent much of the day hiking on Ikuchijima and Takaneshima Islands (connected by a bridge).

Making the most of a sunny day, I hopped on a ferry to Ikuchijima, an island in the Seto Inland Sea, planning to rent a bike. However, the only option available was an electric one, so I opted for a hike instead. The sight of submerged rails, likely for a boat launch, evoked the wonderful train scene from the anime Spirited Away.

Google Maps helped me escape a grey drippy day via a steaming bowl of Hakata Ramen. Posted When Google Maps Knows Ramen.

Encircling the room, on the upper part of the wall, a grim cityscape frieze consists of 140,000 tiles to represent each individual who died. A water basin in the center commemorates those who died begging for water.

Monday. On a bullet train from Hakata (Fukuoka) to Hiroshima (red pin) for the day. 66 minutes for the 180-mile distance, including a stop. Trains depart Hakata for Hiroshima every 7-8 minutes.

On board a bullet train to Hakata (Fukuoka). Indeed the rain bucketed down all day in Kagoshima, but I was able to visit the Meiji Museum and get my ears lowered. Also popped into MontBell, one of my favorite outdoors stores, to replace my folding/disintegrating daypack. Finally, I enjoyed a coffee and sandwich in a cafe in a lovely public library.

Moving to Fukuoka today (Sunday) for 3 nights. Since it’s raining, a big city makes sense. En route, stopping in Kagoshima for a few hours to visit the Meiji Restoration Museum and get a haircut at Hot Pepper Beauty (3rd time).

It’s Saturday. Sometimes I like to figure out what locals do at weekends, so, I hopped on a train to the seaside. Familiar sights greeted me: a beach, children exploring tidal rock pools, surfers, a pleasant beachfront esplanade, and ready availability of ice cream. Less familiar was a shrine located on an island, reached by a footbridge.

A ferry brought me to a small island where I followed OLLE trail markers—like these—along a route with varied terrain, going from sea level to the top of a small mountain. At the beginning, an old man suggested I rent a bicycle. Later, a car stopped next to me and the driver offered me a ride. In both cases, I thanked them then continued walking.

Today (Friday) I’ll move my “base” from Oita to Miyazaki, 128 miles to the south, with a journey break in Saiki for another OLLE hike, this time on an island (Onyujima). After a couple nights in Miyazaki, the plan is open. I’ve managed to keep ahead of rain but by late on Saturday, western Japan is enveloped.

Spent most of the day hiking an OLLE Course, a scenic hiking trail. Despite venturing out to a remote area, the route led me to the ruins of the most massive castle I’ve ever seen, and a large, 800-year-old cliff carving of a Buddha. But most of all, I simply enjoyed exploring the quiet trails of the beautiful Kyushu countryside.