Microblog

After a day of sightseeing, we returned to this Izakaya from last night. With just 14 seats, we were the only tourists among a bar full of friendly, local characters. Sumo wrestling played on the television, while the walls displayed sumo-themed photos and memorabilia. At one point the barman held up his phone so we could all sing Happy Birthday to an absent customer.

We put together a day of exploring Japanese design and architecture. We traveled by bullet train from Kobe to Himeji (15 minutes) to wander through Himeji Castle’s grounds and Nishinomara Gardens. Back in Kobe, we visited the Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum, which showcases Japan’s excellence in wooden structures. Finally, at the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art, a building by Tadao Ando, we saw a special exhibition: “Living Modernity: Experiments in Housing 1920s-1970s.”

To break up our journey, we’re making an overnight stop in Kobe. Just behind the bullet train station we rode a ropeway up the Rokko Mountain chain, which abruptly halts the city’s sprawl.

Spent the day exploring Hagi’s feudal past, including wandering quiet streets of well-preserved houses in the merchant and samurai districts. Very few other tourists were in evidence; most visitors to Japan stick to the “Golden Route” (mainly Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, and Osaka via bullet trains), drawn by its popularity and the expectations set by social media. Hagi can only be accessed via slow routes, which guaranteed our quiet explorations today.

​We were reminded of that classic scene in Spirited Away as we boarded this rural train bound for Hagi. Unlike the Sea Train in the movie, we didn’t cross a flooded landscape, but the journey was magical nonetheless as we passed lovely views of the Sea of Japan dotted with tiny islands beyond the crenellated coastline. In Hagi, we’ll stay for two nights, sleeping in a traditional tatami room and being served multi-course dinners and breakfasts.

A train, a bus, and one of these ferries took us to Oshima, the island in the distance in the Sea of Japan. Hiked to the highest peak, then improvised the rest of the hike after discovering the path had been blocked by a landslide.

Our flight from Tokyo landed us in Fukuoka by 9:30 AM, with a great view of Mt. Fuji along the way. Hiked a new Kyushu OLLE course, opened in October, following blue and red trail markers. Having hiked most of the OLLE trails over the years, I appreciated the new path, even if our hike didn’t always follow the intended route. The day included a local train from Fukuoka, a ride on a community bus (about US$0.65), views of the Sea of Japan, ancient shrines, and bamboo groves.

Fuji-san made an appearance as we climbed out of Tokyo en route to Fukuoka today.

A draft Asahi feels so good after the long flight from Minneapolis. It’s Saturday night at Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, 15 hours ahead of Central Time. We’re staying at an in-terminal hotel tonight, flying to Fukuoka in the morning.

Just 48 hours ago we hadn’t decided if we’d go to Japan. Then, after medical appointments for Dwight and me, with no follow-ups in the next couple weeks, we said “why not?” So, here we are, about to board a Minneapolis MSP to Tokyo HND flight. From Tokyo, we’ll fly to Fukuoka on Kyushu (the most southerly of Japan’s four main islands) then take a convoluted route riding the rails back toward Tokyo.

Yesterday at the National Cemetery, I was impressed by the work it must take to keep the grass short around tens of thousands of grave markers. This morning, across the road from the school where I volunteer, I spotted these deer, grazing in the oldest cemetery in Minneapolis, the Pioneers and Soldiers Memorial Cemetery. Some of those headstones mark the graves of Civil War soldiers.

Today’s cycle ride took us through Fort Snelling National Cemetery. My friend was searching for the grave marker of an aunt, the spouse of a Korean War veteran. Given the cemetery’s massive size, with over 260,000 interments, the search was a bit of a challenge. After some effort, we successfully located the headstone, and my friend was able to take a photo for his aunt’s five children.

Today I walked past this substation. It distributes power from a hydroelectric plant powered by the Mississippi at St. Anthony Falls. The plant was built in 1908 to power the streetcar system, and the same generators are still running today. It always intrigues me that the substation’s footprint is larger than the actual power plant.

Too busy enjoying a walk and chat with friends to remember to capture a photo du jour. Instead, here’s a shot of our garden on wheels on this cold evening.

An overnight dusting of snow was evident as we walked our usual Sunday morning route. Temperatures were in the 20s, along with a brisk Canadian breeze, something we haven’t experienced since March. Winter comes early in these parts, we wrapped up well.

The GE app on my phone had forgotten our appliances, so I spent too much time unsuccessfully trying to reconnect the oven via Wi-Fi. Oddly, Google Assistant still recognizes the dishwasher, allowing me to ask Google about the wash cycle status, a feature we use two or three times a year. As for the oven, not only had the app forgotten about its “smart” access, but I had, too.