Posted Boxing Day: A Day for Selling Vacations. When I was growing up in England, the day after Christmas was a day for relaxing and eating leftovers. Television advertising, finally freed from promoting the excesses of Christmas consumption, switched to hawking packaged vacations.
Posted Japan 2024: Plan for a Plan. Travel is iterative: each journey is a prototype for the next time I visit an area; there’s no pressure to tick off all the boxes.
Packed 15 laundry detergent sheets, all of 2 ounces, for the upcoming 50-day trip. They’ve been working well at home, and these 15 sheets will suffice for 15 large loads or 30 small loads. Since Japanese hotel washing machines often dispense detergent automatically, I may bring some sheets back home.
Packed bags, checked-in flights for tomorrow, and corralled plants await our departure. Dwight has consolidated the houseplants and hooked them up to the watering system. While he insists on manual control, albeit remotely via the Internet, cameras offer visual and auditory (pumps whirring) assurance of their well-being.
This evening we’ll be in Honolulu. The one-stop journey via Los Angeles saved a bundle of Delta SkyMiles compared to the non-stop. We’ll have lunch at LAX during a two-hour layover.
While Dwight nursed a cold, I walked out to fill my backpack. At Safeway I gazed in awe at the display of Spam. In the checkout line, the cashier broached the topic of Queen Camilla, prompting the ladies behind me to make disapproving noises. We all agreed we would prefer Queen Meghan for better giggles, but it might cause a rebellion.
Wandering the halls, I searched for remnants of the hotel’s old identity, now meticulously erased by last week’s rebranding, not even a shadow remaining. The hotel’s management had paid off a former US president so they could remove his name and brand from the building.
Gave my HOLO transit card a workout, 4 buses, 2 trains, expertly guided by Google Maps. Rode the first phase of the Skyline LRT which opened last year.
Honolulu gets busy with all the tourists (us included). But there are still plenty of quiet spots to hide away, like the halls of the 1927 Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Its quiet corners are perfect for a slow morning coffee or sunset pupus.
Japan is on sale: the Yen is 30% off its February 2021 dollar price. I kept that thought in mind today when I paid in Yen for an all-Japan rail pass. The price jumped 70% last October, the first increase since it was introduced in the 1980’s. Japan’s hotels continue to be a bargain.
As we walked along the oceanfront, a wedding was winding down. On our return, not a single petal remained, as if the tide had swept away all traces of celebration.
After a two-hour walk around the base of Diamond Head, and a shared mahi mahi sandwich and IPAs (not shared) at the beach bar at the Royal Hawaiian, we took this picture with Diamond Head in the background in roughly the same position as a photo with Dwight’s mom over 20 years ago. We then stopped at a Japanese konbini to pick up a creamy dessert for later.
Visited Shangri-La, the former home of tobacco heiress Doris Duke, which is now a museum showcasing rare and beautiful Islamic art and architecture. At times I was transported to the grandeur of the Alhambra. Tickets go fast, so I booked this visit the day tickets became available a few weeks ago.
Visited Foster Botanical Garden via city bus, where we encountered some rare trees, including one species extinct in the wild. Joni Mitchell's song "Big Yellow Taxi," based on a trip to Honolulu, references Foster Garden in the lines, "They took all the trees, and put 'em in a tree museum / And charged the people a dollar and a half just to see 'em."
The weather went from no prospect of rain to heavy rain when I took a transit bus up a mountain, through a tunnel, and down the other side. Without a jacket I got soaked, accepted getting wet is temporary, and walked to a non-practicing Buddhist temple. It didn't have all the features or atmosphere of a practicing temple, but the location was lovely.
Every morning, breakfast begins with ripe Hawaiian bananas and papaya. Dwight has a knack for letting them reach perfect ripeness before serving them. Since these fruits are delicate and don’t travel well, they’re a special treat only in Hawaii.
Visited the Battleship Missouri, the ship where Japan surrendered, ending World War II. My friend Dave's father served on a sister ship, and his story tracks much of the Pacific War. He was an electrician, so we signed up for a small-group engineering tour. I was impressed by the sheer size of the vessel and the enormous network of electrical cables.
We enjoyed this lunchtime view from the beach bar at the Royal Hawaiian, sharing an order of pupus. You don’t have to stay in spendy hotels to enjoy their public spaces! Afterwards, we picked up a creamy dessert from a nearby Japanese konbini to enjoy with tea back at our VRBO.
Took in a lovely Hockney exhibition at the Honolulu Museum of Art, filled with the artist’s humanity. Bonus: Hokusai prints from his final (1839) series, One Hundred Poems Told by the Nurse, a small sample from James Michener’s gift of thousands of significant Japanese prints.
After walking through a tunnel and across the Diamond Head crater floor, we reached the far side where we hiked up to a gun emplacement and were rewarded with a superb view. On our walk back to our VRBO, we stopped for a traditional Hawaiian mixed plate lunch, which, of course, included macaroni salad.
Jonathan Butler, the world-class South African performer, was the artist. However, the sound quality was poor, so we left because sunk cost is a poor reason to stay. A relaxed nightcap on our balcony wound down a good day.
Rode public transit one hour out of Honolulu to Koko Crater Botanical Garden where we hiked a trail surrounded by desert plants nestled within a caldera.
A longer walk than planned took us to a semi-industrial area to a place where beer is unlikely to run out, the holy of holies of Waikiki Brewing Company. Aloha Blonde for him, 808 Pale (a nod to Hawaii’s area code) for me, nachos with pulled smoked pork to share. A number 13 bus whisked us back to our VRBO.
Held on tight during a morning coffee cruise on the Vida Mia, a motor yacht built in 1929. It has a storied past, including serving as a coastguard vessel during World War II.
Today’s adventure was a delightful loop hike through the jungly/rainforest hills above Honolulu. The trail, accessible by bus, combined the Kanealole, Makiki Valley, and Maunalaha Trails for a complete escape from the city.
After a beach walk, we headed back along a public beach access path located between two hotels. This narrow passage was lined with surfboard racks that surfers can rent.
Hula, a tradition that tells stories passed down for generations, was banned in the 19th century by missionaries who dismissed Hawaiian culture as heathen. Today, we watched Hawaiian hula performers who had participated in an annual international festival of performers from across Polynesia.
Visited ‘Iolani Palace, once home to Hawaii’s monarchs. In 1893, the reign of the beloved Queen Liliʻuokalani came to an end when the sons of missionaries played a significant role in illegally overthrowing the Hawaiian Kingdom, disenfranchising the native people.
On my walk: a Baskin-Robbins in a strip mall. As a teenager, former President Obama scooped here. Nearby are his place of birth (Kapiolani Medical Center for Women and Children) and the apartment where he lived with his single mom.
Our adventure today combined city bus travel with walking. At the (Queen) Liliʻuokalani Botanical Garden, Dwight located three trees he’ll feature in his blog. The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, situated within a volcanic crater, offered a serene atmosphere and spectacular views, while also serving as a poignant reminder of the Pacific War's battles.
At the Bishop Museum, we traced the Polynesian diaspora leading to the discovery and settlement of the Hawaiian Islands around 1,000 years ago. In the planetarium we learned about their sophisticated navigation techniques which relied on the stars and other natural elements, rather than instruments.
At Stüssy, only a few customers were allowed in at a time. Those waiting patiently in line were mainly Asian, reflecting the demographics of Hawaii tourism. Nearly half of all visitors to Hawaii come from Asia, a trend that began with the early Japanese settlements in the 1870s. Perhaps this explains why we had the best tonkatsu, ever, in Honolulu.
This afternoon (Wednesday) Dwight flies home, arriving Minneapolis early Thursday morning, and I fly to Tokyo, arriving Thursday evening. In Tokyo, I’ll check into an airport terminal hotel. Friday morning, I’ll fly to Kochi on Shikoku, one of Japan’s four main islands.
Walked through the well-maintained airside gardens at Honolulu HNL, with sections reflecting multicultural Hawaii and its historical connections with Asia. These include gardens dedicated to China, Japan, and Hawaii itself. The scents of vegetation mingle with the occasional whiff of aviation fuel.
With permission, stuck my head in the cockpit where the three pilots were performing pre-flight checks. "Come in," they said. I asked for, and got, a trading card! (This is a service that Delta doesn't advertise.) As a bonus, I chatted up the gate agent and got a seat set aside for off-duty pilots. (I won't be using the curtains.) Please don't judge me, I'm a geek!
This morning (Friday) I’ll fly from Tokyo to Kochi where I’ll stay tonight. Tomorrow (Saturday) I’ll head down the Muroto Peninsula (blue rectangle) for a few days.
Whenever I fly west out of Tokyo I always select a window seat on the right side of the plane hoping for clear weather. Today I was not disappointed.
Rode a rural train to the end of the line, then boarded a rural bus that took me all the way to the sparsely populated tip of the Muroto Peninsula. Climbed to temple 24 of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage. Now, I'm settled into a ryokan, a traditional old-fashioned inn, bathed, wearing a yukata, ready for dinner. Later, I'll be crashing out in this room on a futon on the tatami mats.
On my walk to temples 25 and 26, I exchanged konnichiwa greetings with actual Shikoku 88 (temple) pilgrims. Two dragons guarded the purification basin at Kongochoji, temple 26.
Checked out of the ryokan I've been staying at. I'm so glad the owner insisted I take a selfie with her! She's a real firecracker--always manages to communicate with such humor. Speaking of humor, click through to check out a cartoon she drew to explain what was in front of me for breakfast.
Stitched together a journey along the less-traveled east coast of the Muroto Peninsula and beyond to Takamatsu. Three local buses on a road hugging the spectacular coastline, a local then an express train, ending at a pleasant hotel towering over the station plaza. Somehow I got in 10,000+ steps exploring between rides.
I mistakenly ended up at what I thought was Temple 83. Buddhist temples often incorporate Shinto elements, but this particular place felt excessively Shinto, with a plethora of kami (deities, spirits, etc.) on display. The vibe was almost like a scene straight out of an anime theme park. Eventually, I realized the temple was right next door. Oops!
It’s pouring rain all day today (Wednesday) here in Takamatsu, so I’m taking advantage of my Japan Rail Pass. Since the pass removes the financial disincentive to travel, I'm relocating to Oita, which has sunny skies this week and is close to a couple of OLLE hiking courses. The journey is 360 miles, much of it by bullet train.
Trains were cancelled because of high winds, so I had to change my route to Oita today. I describe the replacement journey in a blog post, A Surprise “Sea Cruise”.
Spent most of the day hiking an OLLE Course, a scenic hiking trail. Despite venturing out to a remote area, the route led me to the ruins of the most massive castle I’ve ever seen, and a large, 800-year-old cliff carving of a Buddha. But most of all, I simply enjoyed exploring the quiet trails of the beautiful Kyushu countryside.
Today (Friday) I’ll move my “base” from Oita to Miyazaki, 128 miles to the south, with a journey break in Saiki for another OLLE hike, this time on an island (Onyujima). After a couple nights in Miyazaki, the plan is open. I’ve managed to keep ahead of rain but by late on Saturday, western Japan is enveloped.
A ferry brought me to a small island where I followed OLLE trail markers—like these—along a route with varied terrain, going from sea level to the top of a small mountain. At the beginning, an old man suggested I rent a bicycle. Later, a car stopped next to me and the driver offered me a ride. In both cases, I thanked them then continued walking.
It's Saturday. Sometimes I like to figure out what locals do at weekends, so, I hopped on a train to the seaside. Familiar sights greeted me: a beach, children exploring tidal rock pools, surfers, a pleasant beachfront esplanade, and ready availability of ice cream. Less familiar was a shrine located on an island, reached by a footbridge.
Moving to Fukuoka today (Sunday) for 3 nights. Since it’s raining, a big city makes sense. En route, stopping in Kagoshima for a few hours to visit the Meiji Restoration Museum and get a haircut at Hot Pepper Beauty (3rd time).
On board a bullet train to Hakata (Fukuoka). Indeed the rain bucketed down all day in Kagoshima, but I was able to visit the Meiji Museum and get my ears lowered. Also popped into MontBell, one of my favorite outdoors stores, to replace my folding/disintegrating daypack. Finally, I enjoyed a coffee and sandwich in a cafe in a lovely public library.
Monday. On a bullet train from Hakata (Fukuoka) to Hiroshima (red pin) for the day. 66 minutes for the 180-mile distance, including a stop. Trains depart Hakata for Hiroshima every 7-8 minutes.
Encircling the room, on the upper part of the wall, a grim cityscape frieze consists of 140,000 tiles to represent each individual who died. A water basin in the center commemorates those who died begging for water.
Google Maps helped me escape a grey drippy day via a steaming bowl of Hakata Ramen. Posted When Google Maps Knows Ramen.
Making the most of a sunny day, I hopped on a ferry to Ikuchijima, an island in the Seto Inland Sea, planning to rent a bike. However, the only option available was an electric one, so I opted for a hike instead. The sight of submerged rails, likely for a boat launch, evoked the wonderful train scene from the anime Spirited Away.
I’m now in Osaka, about 400 miles from Hakata (Fukuoka) where I was this morning. Along the way I broke the journey in Mihara where I put my backpack in a locker and walked five minutes to a ferry terminal on the Seto Inland Sea. I spent much of the day hiking on Ikuchijima and Takaneshima Islands (connected by a bridge).
“But it will be so much prettier when the cherry blossoms bloom any day now.” That’s the thinking I was planning on when I caught a bullet train to Himeji. This early 1600’s structure has escaped widespread destruction of castles in the 1870’s, WW2 bombing, and earthquakes. Despite being Japan's most visited castle, there were no lines early this morning.
Rode on a new section of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line that opened two weeks ago between Tsuruga and Kanazawa. When completed, this line will offer an alternative bullet train route between Tokyo and Osaka.
I’m now in Kanazawa (blue dot) which will be my base for the next three days. Authorities are begging tourists to return after the January 1, 2024 earthquake devastated areas in the peninsula north of Kanazawa. Today I traveled 144 miles from Osaka via two bullet trains and four local trains. Along the way, I paused for a hike.
Today I was a full-throttle tourist. There’s so much to see in Kanazawa, so many stories. It’s amazing that this major city escaped WW2 bombings. As a result, Edo-period (pre-1868) streets like this one still stand, making them national treasures.
Cycled the Hakusan-Tedori River Route, a rail trail near Kanazawa where I’m staying. In this photo I’d been cycling towards the Northern Japan Alps for a couple hours; rice paddies flank the trail. I hadn’t realized there was a gradual incline most of the way, so the return trip was faster.
Monday. Travelled by bullet train from Kanazawa to Tokyo, then transferred to a local train for Yokohama (part of Greater Tokyo), my final stop on this trip. On Wednesday it will be a 20-minute ride on the Keikyu Line to Tokyo’s Haneda Airport international terminal.
In Yokohama, I explored a hillside area that served as the foreigners' section when Japan opened to the world in the 1850s. The Europeans and Americans who settled here played a vital role in Japan's modernization. The Foreign General Cemetery offers a glimpse into these lives, like this Scottish islander who became an officer with the NYK Line (Nippon Yusen Kaisha, founded 1885).
Completed my temple and shrine quota for this trip with a visit to Kamakura, Japan's capital from 1185 to 1333. On a hike along a fine trail in the hills above the city, I stumbled upon this tiny cave shrine. The few other hikers I encountered, nearly all Japanese and mostly older than me, seemed unfazed by the trail's more technical sections.
I rarely buy souvenirs; however, I have a running joke with my oncologist about Japanese KitKats. So, here I am in a typically garish and cluttered Don Quijote (Donki), selecting boxes of uniquely flavored KitKats for the care team: Strawberry Cheesecake, Amaou Strawberry, Island Lemon, and Tamaruya Wasabi.
Posted Temple Plumbing 2024 about four temples on the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage I visited this year.
