Flew to Tucson, AZ; went for a walk before checking in to a rental apartment. The area is new to us: we’ll be exploring it on foot and bicycle over the next two weeks.
Hiked an in-and-out trail for much the day through the Sabino Canyon Recreation Area, turning around at the Instagram-worthy Seven (water) Falls. I took way too many cactus pictures.
Hiked the Sonoran Desert trails of nearby Saguaro National Park (named after the tall cacti), followed by mid-afternoon lunch at a decent “crafthouse and eatery” on our way back to our rented apartment.
Hiked in the Santa Catalina Mountains above Tucson to a height where fewer cacti roam. Sabino Canyon Recreation Area.
Hiked in the mountains above Tucson, Saguaro National Park East. Looking out, across Tucson, we could see the largest aircraft boneyard in the world, housing almost 4,000 carefully lined up military planes.
Explored the Tucson Botanical Gardens, where cacti are held in captivity and a cafe serves lunch: a change of pace from our desert hikes.
Today’s a rest day. Posted Rental Apartments: Embracing Imperfection. Tomorrow, we’re back on the trails, and that’s a good thing.
We’ve found so many coffee shops and restaurants in Tucson that we like, all locally owned.
Layers of desert, mountain, and sky from a trail in Saguaro National Park West. We’re staying close by for a night before returning to our base near Saguaro National Park East.
Hiked Saguaro National Park West for a second day before returning to our base near Saguaro National Park East.
Last Arizona hike today. Inspired by Marie Kondo, thanked a hiking sock for its service before discarding. It should’ve departed a long time ago as it had lost most of its cushion. My feet are happy with synthetic: comfortable, they wick, no blisters, and overnight wash and dry.
Photographed the dusty exterior of our rental car (to prove there was no damage) before returning it to Tucson TUS. Less than one tank of gas took us to every trailhead.
Ready to doze off, Princess Leia headphones, en route to Palm Springs, hiking poles and boots stowed in the hold. Tomorrow we move. MSP–SLC–PSP
I thought it was for real, and found the idea of tap dancing au naturel mildly disturbing. Dwight managed to assure me it was a joke.
An urban day. 4 miles round-hike to a supermarket to fill our backpacks, back to our rental apartment. Cooled off with beer and pizza at the Palm Springs Art Museum. Silently thought about juxtapositions of art pieces, as suggested by a curator on our last visit a few years ago.
View from the balcony of our rental apartment. Earlier we hiked uphill, but turned around with temperatures, unusually, in the 90’s. When the sun goes behind the mountain, the desert air is suddenly comfortable. Next week we’re promised daytime temperatures in the 60’s and 70’s.
With the continuing heat wave, stayed in our neighborhood with ghosts of Hollywood legends. Elizabeth Taylor’s former home is two blocks away. Later, walked past Peter Lawford’s house where Marilyn Monroe met President Kennedy. Later still, Marilyn Monroe’s house, shown here.
Our urban hike included a botanical garden founded by a Keystone Cop, and an architecture museum in a former bank. Important chairs, arranged chronologically, from the past century, included examples by Frank Lloyd Wright and Eero Saarinen. Here, the drive-through window remains.
Dwight jogged, I walked. Found a home on a half-block lot crammed with kitsch. Neighbors in this up-market, residential, Movie Colony neighborhood don’t appreciate this free expression. Frank Sinatra, who once lived in the next block, would surely have sent his boys round.
A city bus dropped us off a few blocks from a trailhead. Walked back on a rugged trail in the San Jacinto mountains, 1,000 feet above Palm Springs.
It was time for another neighborhood walk in pursuit of the improbable. The Bridge of Thighs, as it’s known locally, connects two parts of a nudist resort. Canvas panels help passing motorists to keep their eyes on the road.
Hiked in the mountains for a few hours, then walked down into Palm Springs for a late lunch of grilled cheese sandwiches and beer.
Rode a city bus to Desert Memorial Park where, in 2019, California was the first state to dedicate a memorial to LGBTQ veterans. Until recently, the US military routinely discharged members for their sexual orientation.
We’ve caught glimpses of this house as we looked down from mountain trails. Local star-architect, Albert Frey, designed this gorgeous 800 square foot home in 1964 and lived here for 30 years. Today, we got a chance to go inside. Our rental apartment was designed by Frey in 1946.
Walked over to Budget to pick up their smallest, cheapest car I’d reserved weeks ago. Along the way, nosed around City Hall, designed by Albert Frey (a theme this week), completed 1952. Budget only had a Ford Mustang convertible for us, no up-charge, which we accepted grudgingly.
We’re staying in a comfortable old one-star inn beside Joshua Tree National Park. Today we did a couple hikes. The turnaround for one was a mine that had been abandoned about 100 years ago. The other took us to this palm oasis, a striking sight after a dry, desert hike.
One last hike in Joshua Tree National Park, High View Nature Loop Trail, before returning to Palm Springs.
Walked through architect Albert Frey’s 1955 Cree House. The appliances are original and still working; the refrigerator is behind the three upper doors to the right of the range. The house is perfectly aligned to minimize the effects of the sun’s rays. It’s still privately owned.
Evening: community theater, “Palm Springs Getaway,” a “musical romp.” Afternoon: a lecture on desert modernism. Morning: walked to a visitor center, formerly a gas station. Architect Albert Frey was a character in the show, discussed in the lecture, and designed the gas station.
The last day of Modernism Week in Palm Springs: visited five recently remodeled homes. This home retains some original 1957 features, including the fireplace. The homeowners have gone for a consistent mid-century vibe with furniture choices. Nice, but I prefer to mix it up a bit.
Hiked the trails of Indian Canyons, just south of Palm Springs: ridge trails, temperatures in the 80’s, flowering cacti, palm tree oases in canyons, expansive views of the snow-capped San Jacinto Mountains.
With temperatures rising into the 90’s, stayed close to home. At about 4:00 p.m. the sun will go behind the mountains, and the temperature will seem to drop almost 20°, making it comfortable to sit on the balcony. Our 1947 rental apartment was designed by architect Albert Frey.
Walked through formal desert gardens at the Annenberg Foundation’s Sunnylands, the “Camp David of the West.”
Walked along residential roads lined by high hedges. The former home of movie mogul Darryl F. Zanuck, the first president of United Artists, hides behind this gate.
Temporarily stained our clothes with yellow pollen as we brushed against flowering brittlebush (encelia farinosa) as we hiked above Palm Springs. Everything went in the wash, including ourselves, when we returned to base.
Friends couldn’t join us, but we walked out, anyway, to a wine bar we’ve never visited. Pupus were excellent: dates (terroir for Palm Springs) wrapped in bacon, and meatballs.
Experienced contrasts as we hiked desert trails with wide vistas in the hills, then descended into oases wedged in canyons. The sudden drop in temperature and the sound of running water were always surprising. Indian Canyons, Palm Springs.
My hike for the day: walked to a supermarket, walked back carrying provisions in my backpack.
One final hike above Palm Springs. We both wished the hike had been longer: “Leave ’em wanting more,” I guess.
Rode the tram at MSP to the LRT. When they were young, we’d take our nephews for rides on the tram. There’s a jog in the middle, which is always exciting if you’re not holding on tight. Truth is, I had as much fun as my nephews (maybe more).
