Spain and Portugal 2022

The boys spent much of the time on the beach or near the hotel pool.

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Planes, Trains, Buses
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Purchased the final tickets for a family trip this summer with our nephews and their parents. Portuguese train tickets opened up this week for our day of travel. By buying them now, we paid less than half the price closer to the day of travel. We’ve now reserved our complete journey from Minneapolis, back to Minneapolis. Every ticket is digital via these apps. Alsa: bus, Spain and Portugal.Renfe: rail (high speed), Spain.CP: rail, Portugal. Related

Ready for a Quick Getaway
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Our backpacks wait near the front door for tomorrow’s trip. We’re strong proponents for traveling light, but we’re bringing a few extra clothes this time because we won’t be walking much more than a mile at a time with the packs. These 35-liter packs will still easily fit the overhead bins. Related

An Unplanned Flight
Dwight and I, our nephews and their parents, are currently in-flight with KLM from Minneapolis MSP to Amsterdam Schiphol AMS. It’s not how we planned it, but we’ll get to our final destination airport, Malaga, on time (probably), as originally planned.

Posted An Unplanned Flight. Related

Nerja Selfie
We arrived Nerja, Andalucia, on-schedule after an overnight journey from Minneapolis. It was late afternoon as we walked from the bus stop to a Parador where we'd stayed in 2019.

Arrived Nerja, Andalucia, on schedule after our overnight journey. Took a selfie on the grounds of our hotel for the next week. Related

Dreaming of Paella
Next day, we went to a restaurant for lunch, next to the Playa Burriana (beach), below the hotel. We’d been talking for months about revisiting this restaurant for paella.

We’ve been talking for months about revisiting this restaurant by the beach for paella. There was plenty paella to feed the six of us at lunch, including two teenagers. In the foreground, shrimp are being rinsed in a sink, and chopped-up wooden pallets wait to fuel the fire. Related

A Goose Chase
Another day we divided into three teams for a scavenger hunt I’d created for the GooseChase app. The theme of six “missions” was “Nerja Rocks (Literally).”

We divided into three teams for a scavenger hunt I’d created for the GooseChase app. The theme of six “missions” was “Nerja Rocks (Literally).” Goofy photographic evidence was encouraged; pixelation protects reputations. Related

Frigiliana Day Trip
Dwight and I rode a local bus to the hillside town of Frigiliana, then wandered through a maze of steep streets past whitewashed houses.

Rode a local bus to the hillside town of Frigiliana. Wandered through a maze of steep streets past whitewashed houses. Related

The Remains of Lunch
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“Something light,” we said. Big plate for the (almost) 15-year-old (left). Almost nothing for the 13-year-old (right). Generous tapas for the rest of us. Time for a siesta. Related

Sunday Stroll
Another day we took a trail up from the beach.

Climbed up from Nerja’s Burriana Beach. Walked past avocado, citrus and banana trees, then an ancient aqueduct. Related

Up Next: Seville
After a relaxed few days in Nerja, it was time to get moving and experience a bit of culture. We took a bus from Nerja to Malaga, then a high-speed train to Seville.

Nephews and their dad (and the rest of us, off-camera), about to board a bullet train to Seville. Related

Looking Up
Weeks earlier, as soon as they became available, I booked entrance tickets to Seville Cathedral for the first morning, and the Royal Alcázar (palace) for the second morning.

A day of different spaces, starting with Seville’s massive Cathedral, ending with a flamenco performance in a small space. Here, the oval dome of the Cathedral’s Charter House exemplifies remarkable Renaissance engineering. Related

More is More
Weeks earlier, as soon as they became available, I booked entrance tickets to Seville Cathedral for the first morning, and the Royal Alcázar (palace) for the second morning.

Explored the palace and gardens of the Royal Alcázar of Seville where ”less is more” is not a guiding principle. Later, as the temperature climbed to 110°, we dispersed to our hotel’s rooftop pool and air-conditioned siestas. Related

Backpacking
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Walked from our Seville hotel to a bus station, long distance bus to Lagos (Algarve, Portugal), local bus to dropoff point, mile hike to a house we’d rented in the village of Salema for a week. Here, nephew #1 explores the roof, and eyes the Atlantic where he and his brother later swam. Related

Supermarket Hike
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While the boys and their mom enjoyed the beach and the waves, we hiked to a supermarket where we filled backpacks with fresh produce and meats for the grill. We got in a pleasant hike and stocked up beyond the limited selections at two small stores near where we’re staying. Related

Atlantic Breezes
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Salema, Portugal, where we’re currently staying, has ducked Europe’s most extreme heat. Atlantic breezes make daily highs around 80° feel comfortable.

Cliff Hike
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Hiked a trail starting a few blocks from where we’re staying. Excellent cliff walking, repeated ascents and descents, quiet beaches, an inland loop through arid countryside. Related

Vertiginous View
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Vertiginous view on our hike today to our turnaround point, ruins of a 400-year-old fort built to defend against pirates. Salema, the village where we’re staying, borders Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Nature Park, so we have easy access to trails. Inside Forte de São Luís de Almádena. Related

Tex-Mex-Algarve
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Fajitas for dinner. Tex-Mex-Algarve. Related

Time to Water the Plants
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9:30 a.m., Salema, Portugal: Dwight watered all the houseplants in Minneapolis where it was still night. Misters are on autopilot, but he prefers to run watering zones manually. The system has been reliable, but I find myself imagining additional fault-tolerant features to minimize the possibility of returning from a trip to racks of dead plants. I do need to improve the moisture sensors. Related

A Final Algarve Hike (For Now)
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One final Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Nature Park hike before we leave Salema tomorrow and ride trains north to Lisbon. Click through for a map. The green line defines the boundary of the nature park. We will have stayed in Salema for a full week. Related

Lisbon Oriente
We arrived in Lisbon after riding a local bus, local train, and a long-distance train.

Local bus, local train, mainline train to Lisbon Oriente Station. Rode the metro, checked in to a rental apartment in a neighborhood of mainly Lisbon residents. Lisbon Oriente Related

The Big Picture
We were in Lisbon for 5 nights. On the first morning we walked up to Lisbon's Castle where we took in a fine view of central Lisbon.

Started our Lisbon explorations with a hike up to St. George’s Castle where we surveyed the city below. Walked down into the city where we focused on the Tagus River waterfront. Related

Twisty Streets
Next morning, rather than walking into the center of Lisbon, we took one of the city's creaky, swaying, crowded streetcars.

Rode an ancient streetcar through steep, twisty streets from our rental apartment to the starting point of a Rick Steves audio walking tour we’d all downloaded. Related

Imbibing on the Sidewalk
One stop on the tour was A Ginjinha Bar, established 1840, with a counter open to the sidewalk.

Stopped at the tiny A Ginjinha Bar (recommended by Rick Steves, no less), established in 1840, counter open to the street. Here, purely in the interest of scientific exploration, my brother-in-law bought two shots of the only beverage on sale: one for him to share with my sister-in-law, and one for Dwight and me. We stood on the sidewalk, sipping the strong cherry-infused distilled alcohol. The nephews might’ve had a taste, but I’m pleading the Fifth. Related

Three Guys on a Scooter
Along the river, there was a designated trail, so we caved and agreed they could rent scooters. Ultimately, they could only figure out how to rent one scooter, which the boys and their dad rode for a considerable distance.

They couldn’t figure out how to rent three scooters, so dad and sons shared one scooter. Moments before, nephew #2 boarded and somehow managed to position himself in the middle. Related

LIS–BOS
Next morning, it was time to go home: a subway ride to the airport, then Delta flights from Lisbon LIS to Boston BOS, then BOS back to MSP.

On board, Lisbon LIS–Boston BOS. Related