Toyama is bicycle-friendly: city policies push for more bicycles and fewer cars. While bikeshare stations dot the city, I rented a cross-bike (USD$8) more suitable for exploring. I cycled a scenic trail (look at those mountains!) for a few hours that mostly follows the shoreline of Toyama Bay. Along the way, stopped for a picnic at a table clearly intended for that purpose in the grounds of a shrine.
Category: Living
Plan for remainder of trip
Today (Monday) after walking the Grand Ring at Expo 2025 in Osaka (1), I took an express train then a bullet train to Toyama (2) where I’ll stay for three nights. I’ll then spend three nights in each of Niigata (3) and Akita (4) before heading for Yokohama (5) then Tokyo’s Haneda airport to fly home.
Walking the Grand Ring at Expo 2025 in Osaka
Walked the paths atop the beautiful 2-kilometer structure encircling Osaka’s Expo 2025. Up close, the amazing workmanship features traditional joints reminiscent of temple construction. The laminated wooden beams are meticulously finished and appear suitable for interior work. Its theme, “unity in diversity,” is something most would surely support.
Kobe: art, architecture, and a look at history
Visited the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art in Kobe, designed by Tadao Ando. I always feel at peace in Ando’s buildings. Walked around galleries featuring Ando’s building models and timeline. Took a look at a large Paul Klee retrospective, his Bauhaus pieces particularly resonated with me. His work was condemned as degenerate in 1930’s Germany and was confiscated from museums. In the USA we’re on the thin end of that wedge.
Plan: Osaka the long way
This morning (Saturday) I make a quick getaway from Fukuoka (1) to Hagi (2), a less-visited castle town, for the night. The next day (Sunday) I’d planned to continue to a second castle town, Tsuwano (3), for the afternoon before heading to Osaka (4) for Sunday night. Rain is guaranteed in Tsuwano, so scrub that plan, I’ll go directly to Osaka. Ultimately, I’m aiming for northwest Honshu, but breaking up the journey.
Hiking the Karatsu OLLE course
It took 3 trains and a bus to reach the trailhead for a Kyushu OLLE hike, but that’s part of the fun. It’s getting harder to find a course I haven’t hiked. I followed special markers past rice paddies, through the ruins of an enormous castle, and through rural villages. Here, I imagined I would be one of the peasants in feudal times, carrying the local Daimyo (lord) in a palanquin.
Hakata (tonkotsu) ramen for introverts.
I’m staying next to Hakata Station, a district of Fukuoka, so, of course I had Hakata-style ramen for dinner. The creamy broth is made from pork bones, cooked at a rolling boil for an extended period, 12 to 60 hours, depending on the recipe. I ordered and paid at a touchscreen at the entrance. When the meal was ready, the flap at the back of the cubicle rose up, and hands appeared bearing the meal. Eye contact was impossible.
Unexpected snow, hike abandoned
I was met with icy blasts as I got off the bus at the trailhead bus stop, and after only a few hundred yards, I abandoned the ascent. Though a comfortable climb I’ve done three times before, today was not the day. There was no snow atop Mt. Yufu this morning, but this afternoon was a different story, as seen in this photo from Yufuin’s main drag.
Exploring Kyushu
It’s been a rainy day, a good day to travel by bullet and local trains from Okayama (1) to Kyushu, one of Japan’s four main islands. I’m staying in the onsen town of Yufuin (2) for two nights then I’ll stay in Fukuoka (3) as a base for day trips.
A reconfigurable art gallery by the Inland Sea
Woke up to rain, so took the Shinkansen 130 miles to sunny Iwakuni on the other side of the weather system. At the Simose Art Museum, designed by star architect Shigeru Ban, I enjoyed a dessert lunch overlooking the Inland Sea. Eight brightly colored, rearrangeable gallery modules can be configured by two people to suit exhibition needs.