Desert Southwest 2022

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Tucson Arrival
Tucson Arrival

Flew to Tucson, AZ; went for a walk before checking in to a rental apartment. The area is new to us: we’ll be exploring it on foot and bicycle over the next two weeks.

Too Many Cactus Pictures
Too Many Cactus Pictures

Hiked an in-and-out trail for much the day through the Sabino Canyon Recreation Area, turning around at the Instagram-worthy Seven (water) Falls. I took way too many cactus pictures.

Tucson on Foot, Bike, and Streetcar
Tucson on Foot, Bike, and Streetcar

Explored Tucson on foot, bike, and streetcar.

Saguaro National Park
Saguaro National Park

Hiked the Sonoran Desert trails of nearby Saguaro National Park (named after the tall cacti), followed by mid-afternoon lunch at a decent “crafthouse and eatery” on our way back to our rented apartment.

Sabino Canyon Recreation Area 
Sabino Canyon Recreation Area 

Hiked in the Santa Catalina Mountains above Tucson to a height where fewer cacti roam. Sabino Canyon Recreation Area.

Aircraft Boneyard
Aircraft Boneyard

Hiked in the mountains above Tucson, Saguaro National Park East. Looking out, across Tucson, we could see the largest aircraft boneyard in the world, housing almost 4,000 carefully lined up military planes.

Cacti In Captivity
Cacti In Captivity

Explored the Tucson Botanical Gardens, where cacti are held in captivity and a cafe serves lunch: a change of pace from our desert hikes.

Embracing Imperfection
Embracing Imperfection

Today’s a rest day. Posted Rental Apartments: Embracing Imperfection. Tomorrow, we’re back on the trails, and that’s a good thing.

Local Coffee
Local Coffee

We’ve found so many coffee shops and restaurants in Tucson that we like, all locally owned.

But What Of Mrs Loud?

Meat Loaf played quietly in the background throughout an early dinner (we’re old). But what of Mrs Loud, the session singer belting at the end of “I’d do anything for love”? I found her at the top of page 1 of my hometown paper (she and I are Geordies).

Saguaro National Park
Saguaro National Park

Layers of desert, mountain, and sky from a trail in Saguaro National Park West. We’re staying close by for a night before returning to our base near Saguaro National Park East.

Saguaro National Park West Day 2
Saguaro National Park West Day 2

Hiked Saguaro National Park West for a second day before returning to our base near Saguaro National Park East.

End of a Sock
End of a Sock

Last Arizona hike today. Inspired by Marie Kondo, thanked a hiking sock for its service before discarding. It should’ve departed a long time ago as it had lost most of its cushion. My feet are happy with synthetic: comfortable, they wick, no blisters, and overnight wash and dry.

Tucson TUS
Tucson TUS

Photographed the dusty exterior of our rental car (to prove there was no damage) before returning it to Tucson TUS. Less than one tank of gas took us to every trailhead.

En Route to Palm Springs
En Route to Palm Springs

Ready to doze off, Princess Leia headphones, en route to Palm Springs, hiking poles and boots stowed in the hold. Tomorrow we move. MSP–SLC–PSP

Nude Tap Dancing?
Nude Tap Dancing?

I thought it was for real, and found the idea of tap dancing au naturel mildly disturbing. Dwight managed to assure me it was a joke.

Juxtapositions
Juxtapositions

An urban day. 4 miles round-hike to a supermarket to fill our backpacks, back to our rental apartment. Cooled off with beer and pizza at the Palm Springs Art Museum. Silently thought about juxtapositions of art pieces, as suggested by a curator on our last visit a few years ago.

Balcony View
Balcony View

View from the balcony of our rental apartment. Earlier we hiked uphill, but turned around with temperatures, unusually, in the 90’s. When the sun goes behind the mountain, the desert air is suddenly comfortable. Next week we’re promised daytime temperatures in the 60’s and 70’s.

Ghosts of Legends
Ghosts of Legends

With the continuing heat wave, stayed in our neighborhood with ghosts of Hollywood legends. Elizabeth Taylor’s former home is two blocks away. Later, walked past Peter Lawford’s house where Marilyn Monroe met President Kennedy. Later still, Marilyn Monroe’s house, shown here.

Don’t Sit Here
Don’t Sit Here

Our urban hike included a botanical garden founded by a Keystone Cop, and an architecture museum in a former bank. Important chairs, arranged chronologically, from the past century, included examples by Frank Lloyd Wright and Eero Saarinen. Here, the drive-through window remains.

Yard Art on Steroids
Yard Art on Steroids

Dwight jogged, I walked. Found a home on a half-block lot crammed with kitsch. Neighbors in this up-market, residential, Movie Colony neighborhood don’t appreciate this free expression. Frank Sinatra, who once lived in the next block, would surely have sent his boys round.

Bus There, Walk Back
Bus There, Walk Back

A city bus dropped us off a few blocks from a trailhead. Walked back on a rugged trail in the San Jacinto mountains, 1,000 feet above Palm Springs.

Supermarket Hike
Supermarket Hike

Filled our backpacks at a supermarket. Our urban hike for today.

Bridge of Thighs
Bridge of Thighs

It was time for another neighborhood walk in pursuit of the improbable. The Bridge of Thighs, as it’s known locally, connects two parts of a nudist resort. Canvas panels help passing motorists to keep their eyes on the road.

Hike and Grilled Cheese
Hike and Grilled Cheese

Hiked in the mountains for a few hours, then walked down into Palm Springs for a late lunch of grilled cheese sandwiches and beer.

Honoring LGBTQ Veterans
Honoring LGBTQ Veterans

Rode a city bus to Desert Memorial Park where, in 2019, California was the first state to dedicate a memorial to LGBTQ veterans. Until recently, the US military routinely discharged members for their sexual orientation.

Albert Frey Lived Here
Albert Frey Lived Here

We’ve caught glimpses of this house as we looked down from mountain trails. Local star-architect, Albert Frey, designed this gorgeous 800 square foot home in 1964 and lived here for 30 years. Today, we got a chance to go inside. Our rental apartment was designed by Frey in 1946.

Palm Springs City Hall
Palm Springs City Hall

Walked over to Budget to pick up their smallest, cheapest car I’d reserved weeks ago. Along the way, nosed around City Hall, designed by Albert Frey (a theme this week), completed 1952. Budget only had a Ford Mustang convertible for us, no up-charge, which we accepted grudgingly.

Palm Oasis
Palm Oasis

We’re staying in a comfortable old one-star inn beside Joshua Tree National Park. Today we did a couple hikes. The turnaround for one was a mine that had been abandoned about 100 years ago. The other took us to this palm oasis, a striking sight after a dry, desert hike.

Lost Horse Loop Trail
Lost Horse Loop Trail

Hiked Lost Horse Loop Trail, Joshua Tree National Park.

High View Nature Loop Trail
High View Nature Loop Trail

One last hike in Joshua Tree National Park, High View Nature Loop Trail, before returning to Palm Springs.

1955 Cree House
1955 Cree House

Walked through architect Albert Frey’s 1955 Cree House. The appliances are original and still working; the refrigerator is behind the three upper doors to the right of the range. The house is perfectly aligned to minimize the effects of the sun’s rays. It’s still privately owned.

Palm Springs Getaway
Palm Springs Getaway

Evening: community theater, “Palm Springs Getaway,” a “musical romp.” Afternoon: a lecture on desert modernism. Morning: walked to a visitor center, formerly a gas station. Architect Albert Frey was a character in the show, discussed in the lecture, and designed the gas station.

Consistent Vibe
Consistent Vibe

The last day of Modernism Week in Palm Springs: visited five recently remodeled homes. This home retains some original 1957 features, including the fireplace. The homeowners have gone for a consistent mid-century vibe with furniture choices. Nice, but I prefer to mix it up a bit.

Indian Canyons Vista
Indian Canyons Vista

Hiked the trails of Indian Canyons, just south of Palm Springs: ridge trails, temperatures in the 80’s, flowering cacti, palm tree oases in canyons, expansive views of the snow-capped San Jacinto Mountains.

Staying Cool
Staying Cool

With temperatures rising into the 90’s, stayed close to home. At about 4:00 p.m. the sun will go behind the mountains, and the temperature will seem to drop almost 20°, making it comfortable to sit on the balcony. Our 1947 rental apartment was designed by architect Albert Frey.

Formal Desert
Formal Desert

Walked through formal desert gardens at the Annenberg Foundation’s Sunnylands, the “Camp David of the West.”

High Hedges
High Hedges

Walked along residential roads lined by high hedges. The former home of movie mogul Darryl F. Zanuck, the first president of United Artists, hides behind this gate.

Yellow Pollen
Yellow Pollen

Temporarily stained our clothes with yellow pollen as we brushed against flowering brittlebush (encelia farinosa) as we hiked above Palm Springs. Everything went in the wash, including ourselves, when we returned to base.

Missed Opportunity
Missed Opportunity

Friends couldn’t join us, but we walked out, anyway, to a wine bar we’ve never visited. Pupus were excellent: dates (terroir for Palm Springs) wrapped in bacon, and meatballs.

Oasis
Oasis

Experienced contrasts as we hiked desert trails with wide vistas in the hills, then descended into oases wedged in canyons. The sudden drop in temperature and the sound of running water were always surprising. Indian Canyons, Palm Springs.

Foraging At A Supermarket
Foraging At A Supermarket

My hike for the day: walked to a supermarket, walked back carrying provisions in my backpack.

Final Palm Springs Hike… for Now
Final Palm Springs Hike… for Now

One final hike above Palm Springs. We both wished the hike had been longer: “Leave ’em wanting more,” I guess.

Finding Excitement
Finding Excitement

Rode the tram at MSP to the LRT. When they were young, we’d take our nephews for rides on the tram. There’s a jog in the middle, which is always exciting if you’re not holding on tight. Truth is, I had as much fun as my nephews (maybe more).