I’ve just finished building an irrigation controller supporting two watering zones for a rolling houseplant rack.
As I learn and experiment, I’ve changed the design of our irrigation controllers several times. Currently, the focus is simplification, reliability and autonomy. With the previous design, the Internet had to be available for plants to be watered at schedule times. This redesign removes that limitation. Instead of being connected to a central controller via 7-conductor wires, each rack of plants now communicates wirelessly with a central home automation hub over a Z-Wave mesh network.
Houseplant irrigation controller discreetly tucked away on the bottom shelf of a rolling rack of plants. Water is distributed to plants via the irrigation manifold in the background.Manifold for watering zones 10 and 11. Tubes supplying drippers have yet to be connected. Each zone is operated by a solenoid valve powered via a cord connected to the local controller. If there’s a power outage, the valves close themselves. The whole assembly sits in a disaster pan. As an additional precaution, the floor is tile.Brains of the local controller for zones 10 and 11, sitting in a project box. The cords powering the zone valves exit from the box on the right hand side, where there’s provision for four additional zones. The power supply cord (24VAC) enters at the bottom. A Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 MultiRelay controller communicates wirelessly with a central Hubitat Elevation home automation hub over a Z-Wave mesh network. This local controller has the autonomy to shut off the solenoid valves after a preset time even if a shutoff signal is not received from the hub.Drilling the project box. The masking tape prevents the drill bit from slipping. I learned the hard way that the box must be securely clamped. With a previous project, the spinning drill bit forcefully caused the box I was holding to spin. Next up was a trip to UrgentCare to have my left thumb stitched.24VAC power supply. With this project, I’ve started using automotive connectors, hence the new crimper.Hub shelf. It’s actually the top shelf of a cabinet in our kitchen because it’s central to our home. The Hubitat home automation hub on the left does a great job controlling about 120 devices (including all wall dimmers and switches) over Zigbee and Z-Wave mesh networks. Other hubs control window blinds and Philips Hue light bulbs (which the Hubitat hub also controls), and provide phone service over Google Voice. The hubs are wired to the Internet via the four Ethernet ports on the wall. This informal setup is easily modified as technologies are improved or superseded.The Hubitat hub supports many wireless devices, including soil moister sensors and this wireless (Zigbee) water leak detector. In general, I prefer Zigbee over Z-Wave because it’s an open standard and is the foundation for a future wireless protocol, Matter, that will probably dominate the home automation market. Wi-Fi and even low-energy Bluetooth are non-starters because they drain batteries too quickly. Besides, the Mars helicopter communicates with the Perseverance rover using Zigbee! Simple control panel, built on the Hubitat app. The system has no physical switches. Instead, digital control panels can be used anywhere in the world where there’s an Internet connection. Watering schedules can be created and turned on and off; readings from wireless soil moisture and leak sensors are reported; each zone can be manually operated. If we’re going to travel, we point a couple cameras at the plant racks so we can assure ourselves everything is working as it should.Another controller on another rolling rack. This controls four irrigation zones, but I’ve made provision for four additional zones. It also manages a misting system consisting of a high-pressure pump, a UV water sanitizer, and a solenoid valve. The design can be extended indefinitely.
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4 comments
This is exactly the project I would love to build. I already have the zooz relay, but I’m trying to find those small valves you have. Where were you able to find such small systems such as those ? Also, is there a location where I can follow a step by step (I’m a total newb at a lot of this stuff and using home assistant with a zooz zwave stick, but I have never tried something like this, so I would totally appreciate the guidance) the pictures give me ideas, but my mind is racing with questions. Thanks in advance
Thanks for your interest. I’ve had a lot of luck with the Zooz relays, and have found their support people to be extraordinarily helful. Heartily recommended.
BTW, I’ve never had problems with solenoid valves. They’ve been working reliably for years.
USING ZOOZ WITH HOME ASSISTANT
I don’t have experience with Home Assistant, but I bet if you Google around, you’ll find lots of help. I use the Hubitat hub, and benefited from questions and answers people have posted on the Web.
NEXT STEPS
You’ve inspired me to write more blog posts, but probably not in the next month. The secret really is to develop this as a series of prototypes. Chunk the project up into small chunks, build a small chunk, learn from it–typical engineering approach. I’ve changed the design so often over the years and imagine I will be changing it again in the next few months.
It might be best to start with just one zone:
Integrate the Zooz relay with Home Assistant.
Connect a valve to the Zooz relay. You’ll need a 24V AC transformer.
Connect the water pump (if you’re using a pump and not connecting directly to house water supply… risky!). (I connected the pump to a Zooz relay via a 24V AC relay.)
I’m very happy with my latest pump–it produces the right amount of pressure for my application: https://tomwilson.com/micropost/micropost-114/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7FC34L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When I select a zone on the Hubitat hub, the code turns on the zone valve and the pump separately–two Zooz relays.
Plumb in one watering zone. You’ll find all the parts at Amazon or Rain Bird, or … .
Hi Tom- I’m trying to put something together for our pool to maintain the water level. I’ll be using regular 24V sprinkler valves. I already have sensors to communicate with the Zooz Zen16 (ver1). I just want to connect the sprinkler valves to the Zen16.
Looking at the pic, it looks like the common wire from the relays and the power supply are connected together, then fed to the “-” terminal on the Zen16; then it appears that jumper wires are attached from the “-” location to the left terminals of R1, R2 and R3. Also, it appears the “hot” wire from the power supply is connected to the “+” terminal of the Zen16. …and finally, it appears the “hot” wires from the two relays and connected to the right terminals of R1 and R2.
So looking at the pics, its my understanding the 24V power supply is powering the Zen16 and also providing power to R1 and R2.
Could you please take to review my description and tell me if its correct and whether you think this is “best practice” to get things working correctly. Thanks!! Pete, Martinez, GA
The red + hot wire from the power supply is connected to the + terminal of the Zen16. Via jumper wires, the + terminal of the Zen16 is connected to the left terminals of R1, R2, R3.
The blue – wire from the power supply is connected to the blue wires going to the valves (using the twist cap).
The red wire for valve 1 is connected to the right terminal of R1, and so on for each valve.
Yes, the 24 volt transformer powers the Zooz and the valves.
You mention “it appears that jumper wires are attached from the “-” location to the left terminals of R1, R2 and R3.” As you can see the + location, not the – location, connects to the jumpers.
I have several Zooz’s in the system, and they have behaved perfectly over several years.
Good luck with your project and maintaining the water level in your pool.
This is exactly the project I would love to build. I already have the zooz relay, but I’m trying to find those small valves you have. Where were you able to find such small systems such as those ? Also, is there a location where I can follow a step by step (I’m a total newb at a lot of this stuff and using home assistant with a zooz zwave stick, but I have never tried something like this, so I would totally appreciate the guidance) the pictures give me ideas, but my mind is racing with questions. Thanks in advance
Thanks for your interest. I’ve had a lot of luck with the Zooz relays, and have found their support people to be extraordinarily helful. Heartily recommended.
VALVE INFORMATION
Over the years I’ve bought from the following vendor and eBay:
https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/1-2-24v-dc-electric-plastic-solenoid-valve/
I notice they’re out of stock. An eBay search will bring up several options, including, for example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302499856337
I’ve also been using the following push-connector type of valve with the misting part of the system and may use them exclusively in future:
1/4″ 24VAC NC Electric Solenoid Valve Push-In Connectors Quick Connect 24V AC
e.g.,
https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/1-4-24v-ac-push-connect-plastic-solenoid-valve/
The push-connectors are remarkably reliable.
BTW, I’ve never had problems with solenoid valves. They’ve been working reliably for years.
USING ZOOZ WITH HOME ASSISTANT
I don’t have experience with Home Assistant, but I bet if you Google around, you’ll find lots of help. I use the Hubitat hub, and benefited from questions and answers people have posted on the Web.
NEXT STEPS
You’ve inspired me to write more blog posts, but probably not in the next month. The secret really is to develop this as a series of prototypes. Chunk the project up into small chunks, build a small chunk, learn from it–typical engineering approach. I’ve changed the design so often over the years and imagine I will be changing it again in the next few months.
It might be best to start with just one zone:
Integrate the Zooz relay with Home Assistant.
Connect a valve to the Zooz relay. You’ll need a 24V AC transformer.
Connect the water pump (if you’re using a pump and not connecting directly to house water supply… risky!). (I connected the pump to a Zooz relay via a 24V AC relay.)
I’m very happy with my latest pump–it produces the right amount of pressure for my application:
https://tomwilson.com/micropost/micropost-114/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7FC34L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When I select a zone on the Hubitat hub, the code turns on the zone valve and the pump separately–two Zooz relays.
Plumb in one watering zone. You’ll find all the parts at Amazon or Rain Bird, or … .
If you have any more questions, please ask away.
Hi Tom- I’m trying to put something together for our pool to maintain the water level. I’ll be using regular 24V sprinkler valves. I already have sensors to communicate with the Zooz Zen16 (ver1). I just want to connect the sprinkler valves to the Zen16.
Looking at the pic, it looks like the common wire from the relays and the power supply are connected together, then fed to the “-” terminal on the Zen16; then it appears that jumper wires are attached from the “-” location to the left terminals of R1, R2 and R3. Also, it appears the “hot” wire from the power supply is connected to the “+” terminal of the Zen16. …and finally, it appears the “hot” wires from the two relays and connected to the right terminals of R1 and R2.
So looking at the pics, its my understanding the 24V power supply is powering the Zen16 and also providing power to R1 and R2.
Could you please take to review my description and tell me if its correct and whether you think this is “best practice” to get things working correctly. Thanks!! Pete, Martinez, GA
Hi Pete.
Thanks for your comments.
Here’s a photo of the connections:
https://tomwilson.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/PXL_20230822_211519760.jpg
As you can see, it’s all pretty crude–mercifully it’s just 24 volts and hidden in the project box.
The red + hot wire from the power supply is connected to the + terminal of the Zen16. Via jumper wires, the + terminal of the Zen16 is connected to the left terminals of R1, R2, R3.
The blue – wire from the power supply is connected to the blue wires going to the valves (using the twist cap).
The red wire for valve 1 is connected to the right terminal of R1, and so on for each valve.
Yes, the 24 volt transformer powers the Zooz and the valves.
You mention “it appears that jumper wires are attached from the “-” location to the left terminals of R1, R2 and R3.” As you can see the + location, not the – location, connects to the jumpers.
I have several Zooz’s in the system, and they have behaved perfectly over several years.
Good luck with your project and maintaining the water level in your pool.
Regards, Tom