Antequera: the Case for B-List Travel

Estimated numbers of hotel rooms in places we stayed: Granada, Antequera, Marbella and Nerja, Spain. May 2019 data from Instituto Nacional de Estadistica.

If you’re planning to visit Spain’s Costa del Sol, you’ll probably be staying in a busy place. It can be hard to avoid over-loved places, but I prefer to seek out B-List places.

On our recent family trip to the Andalucia region of Southern Spain, we stayed in four cities: Nerja (4 nights), Granada (2 nights), Antequera (7 nights), and Marbella (4 nights).

The graph at the top of this post provides some evidence of the relative popularity of these places.

Mandatory Visits to the Costa del Sol

We had two nephews (10 and 11) in tow. It would be unreasonable to travel so near to the Mediterranean and not give the boys some time to romp on the beach. We book-ended our trip with stays in two places on Spain’s over-loved Costa del Sol: Nerja and Marbella.

Last year (2018) I included Andalucia in my solo travels so I could suss out towns where we might stay this year on our family trip. For many reasons, including the presence of strip clubs, and the sheer density of hotels, I eliminated Torremolinos as a seaside option.

The town clearly welcomes stag parties.
Estimated number of hotel rooms in Marbella, Nerja, and Torremolinos, on the Costa del Sol, Spain.
May 2019 data from Instituto Nacional de Estadistica.

Andalucia’s “Interior”: Granada and Antequera

We stayed two nights in the over-loved city of Granada in a pleasant hotel just outside the walls of the Alhambra. We spent much of a day exploring the A-List Alhambra, and were grateful that admissions are severely limited. Online reservations for the Alhambra open up 90 days in advance and sell out quickly.

It was therefore with some relief I checked us into an Airbnb villa in the lovely town of Antequera. As the chart at the top of this post suggests, this town, population 40,000, is not on most people’s travel A-List. Only 741 hotel rooms is evidence of limited demand for overnight visits.

We rarely heard native English speakers as we explored the town and its uncrowded sights. We also used Antequera as a base for day trips to two crowded A-List places: Ronda and Cordoba.

Antequera did not disappoint.

Snapshots of our Stay in Antequera

Alcazaba

Real Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor (Former Church)

This year, Netflix used this interior to shoot scenes for a new series, “Warrior Nun.” I will not be watching.

Dolmens of Antequera (Prehistoric Burial Mounds)

Inside a 6,000-year-old tomb.
This tomb’s entrance is aligned with the summer equinox (June 21). I took this picture June 23.

Bullring

We did not see a bullfight.
We enjoyed many fine meals in Antequera, including lunch in this restaurant under the tiered rows of stands of the bullring.

El Torcal Hike

Hike to Convento de la Magdalena

Our destination.
The convent serves cold beer. (It’s now a hotel.)

Day Trips

Antequera is a good base for day trips. We’re about to board a bullet train for the 35-minute ride to Cordoba.

“Home” Living

Our Airbnb villa, a short walk from the town center.
Food shopping was an adventure.
Testing the temperature. The boys spent many hours playing in the pool.

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