A few days ago, I walked across the Yorkshire Dales with two friends.
In a previous post, I described how we planned the trip and got to the trailhead in Horton-in-Ribblesdale by train. We wanted to avoid the more popular trails: they can be busy, and our boots would only add to the erosion. A blog post inspired the route we chose. The blogger, Arnold Underwood, generously provided us with his track logs which we followed on Day 1 and Day 3.
The map at the top of this post shows our tracks and accommodations. For additional information, click the tracks and the bed symbols. We walked about the same distance each day, arriving at each hostelry by late afternoon.
In Horton-in-Ribblesdale, we spent a comfortable night in a bed-and-breakfast operated by a guy who previously was a manager in five-star hotels around the world. I can safely say Broad Croft House is a five-star bed and breakfast. Other nights we stayed in hotels. Each accommodation was comfortable and great value.
Day 1: Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Kettlewell
The trail took us past the base of a much-climbed fell, Pen-y-Ghent. I’ve ascended this on previous visits but on this hike, we conserved our energy so we could go the full distance.
As we walked, the clouds became more threatening. It rained most of the day, but it was a gentle rain that typically blew in from behind us rather than into our faces. Rain is part of the deal when you hike in the UK.
By late afternoon we checked into the Racehorses Hotel in Kettlewell.
Day 2: Kettlewell to Pateley Bridge
We could not walk the full distance in one day, so we took a country bus to Grassington, then walked the rest of the way to Pateley Bridge.
For the first few miles, we walked part of a national trail, the Dales Way. We walked much of this trail in 2017.
Eventually, we left the Dales Way and followed various trails and a road until we reached Pateley Bridge.
That night we stayed in a former country house, set in 28 acres of woodland, that once belonged to Archbishop of York. As I did every night, I enjoyed a shower, then we assembled for a pub meal washed down with beer.
Day 3: Pateley Bridge to Ripon
Our final day of hiking took us to the town of Ripon via ancient trails and a World Heritage site.
The hike ended at the front of Ripon Cathedral.
It was Sunday, but there was no service in progress. We walked around the interior, then made a beeline to our hotel for our last night. We agreed we would do another multi-day hike next year.