After the Quake

September 20, 2018. The view from my seat on the turboprop from Central Hokkaido’s New Chitose Airport summed up my hesitancy to visit Japan’s northernmost island.

Below, I could see hills pockmarked by landslides. In some places roads were blocked.

I was witnessing effects of Hokkaido’s massive earthquake exactly two weeks earlier. In the early days the entire island lost electricity, all trains and planes suspended operation, lives were lost.

Until this point, I had seen little evidence of the disruption that had been caused.

I was flying to Japan’s most easterly commercial airport, Nemuro-Nakashibetsu. From there I would take a scheduled bus to Nemuro, the most easterly town in Japan.

I love to travel to the furthest point, the end of the train line, then work my way back.

I had planned to spend a night in Nemuro. Next day I would take a train on a line that had just reopened after the quake.

Nemuro has a population of about 29,000, but it seemed strangely abandoned.

I picked up a sandwich at a convenience store, then walked a mile, or so, in search of somewhere to sit. Eventually, I opted for a wooden beam, planted at the dockside of this fishing port.

After my sit-down lunch, I continued my explorations. A six-lane road that ran from the port, through the middle of town, was almost devoid of vehicles. Traffic lights seemed unnecessary.

I saw only a few people walking along the streets. Some shops looked permanently shuttered, buildings were abandoned. The cheerful music playing over speakers on the light poles fell on few ears.