Journeys 3.1

Sometimes when I travel, I like to figure out what the locals do at weekends. One answer in Niigata is: take a regular train to Yahiko (here, the station staff are greeting us), wander around the little town and parkland admiring the cherry blossom, visit Yahiko Shrine (the religious site dates to prehistoric times), take the ropeway up Mt. Yahiko, go for a short hike, have a picnic. I did it all.

Rented a clunky bicycle (but it was cheap, less than US$4) from this underground bicycle garage across the road from my hotel in Niigata. Cycled a 20km course, mainly on off-road trails beside waterways and the Sea of Japan, around the core city while being buffeted by wind gusts that nearly brought me to a standstill. After returning the bike and a late lunch, had a deep nap back in my hotel room.

Pieced together a route from Toyama to Niigata today, mainly on local trains. Given the infrequent local service in depopulating areas, I took short Shinkansen rides at the start and end so I’d arrive in Niigata today. Here, I’m contemplating the narrow-gauge tracks (3’6″). British engineer Edmund Morel recommended this gauge in 1870 to reduce costs in this mountainous country.

Rain this morning, time to ride the rails and find a place Instagram influencers have yet to over-love: Tsutsuishi Station, on a rural line, approximately 60 riders a day (mainly school kids), in a 7-mile tunnel, 130 feet underground, no elevator. Click through for a photo journal.

Toyama is bicycle-friendly: city policies push for more bicycles and fewer cars. While bikeshare stations dot the city, I rented a cross-bike (USD$8) more suitable for exploring. I cycled a scenic trail (look at those mountains!) for a few hours that mostly follows the shoreline of Toyama Bay. Along the way, stopped for a picnic at a table clearly intended for that purpose in the grounds of a shrine.

Today (Monday) after walking the Grand Ring at Expo 2025 in Osaka (1), I took an express train then a bullet train to Toyama (2) where I’ll stay for three nights. I’ll then spend three nights in each of Niigata (3) and Akita (4) before heading for Yokohama (5) then Tokyo’s Haneda airport to fly home.

Walked the paths atop the beautiful 2-kilometer structure encircling Osaka’s Expo 2025. Up close, the amazing workmanship features traditional joints reminiscent of temple construction. The laminated wooden beams are meticulously finished and appear suitable for interior work. Its theme, “unity in diversity,” is something most would surely support.