Spent most of the morning reviewing our insurance. I confirmed our home’s "All Perils" policy doesn't list covered events; instead, it only lists exclusions. For example, damage from a burst pipe is covered simply because it isn't excluded. I also checked the fine print for our 2026 health plan to confirm it provides worldwide coverage and purchased an annual medical repatriation subscription, something we had allowed to lapse during the pandemic.
In about two weeks we become snowbirds, which means it’s time for the 'Clustering of the Rolling Plant Racks' and the 'Tipping of the Fridge.' Our plants are now all connected to the drip irrigation system, while some are also periodically misted. Tonight’s dinner features carnitas I made and froze a month ago; other delights will be making encore appearances in the coming days.
Started gathering items for our upcoming trip to the Southern Hemisphere summer. The currency is left over from a trip in 2020. We use the detergent sheets both at home and while traveling; there’s enough here for 14 loads. The Japanese coffee filters have become an essential part of our gear. Our entire packing system relies on Ziploc freezer bags ranging from one pint to two gallons.
Found a fine spot between flights at LAX for refreshments. The glass wall is open at the top, so we get doses of fresh air and whiffs of aviation fuel. Our flight leaves tonight (Tuesday) and touches down in Auckland on Thursday morning.
It’s been quite a journey, over 8,000 miles in total, capped off by a turboprop flight into Marlborough wine country. From there, we took a cab to Picton on the Marlborough Sounds. We’ll relax here for two nights before catching a boat to the start of our multi-day, inn-to-inn hike.
Today is a rest day before we start our big hike tomorrow. Woke up to this view from our hotel room. First order of business: freshly baked meat pies for breakfast at a spot we scouted yesterday. Next, we took a beautiful hike above Queen Charlotte Sound, covering almost as much ground as we will tomorrow: we always seem to hike on our "rest" days. A late pub lunch quickly revived us.
With temperatures hitting -21°F (-29°C), our building’s heat failed. My smart home setup let me manage this from afar. I watched the temperature drop and ran ceiling fans and the AC blower to circulate air. The thermostat remained "on," so glycol stayed moving through the radiators to prevent frozen pipes. There wasn’t anything more I could’ve done in person. After a few hours, the heat is finally back on and the plants look OK.
A boat dropped us off at the spot where Captain James Cook first made landfall in New Zealand. This was Day 1 of our multi-day hike along the Queen Charlotte Track, marking our fourth time here. As these waterfalls show, we’re benefiting from the heavy rains that preceded our arrival.
As planned, we’re spending two nights at a comfortable lodge, relaxing. On a friend's recommendation, today I bought 'Tokyo on Foot: Travels in the City's Most Colorful Neighborhoods,' an unusual visual depiction of Tokyo far from the FOMO of the over-touristed world. I actually had to put it aside because it transported me to Japan too effectively; since I’m currently in New Zealand, I’ve returned to 'The Luminaries,' set in 19th-century New Zealand.
Me, a sheep, and a flightless weka while en route to the next port for the night. I walked while Dwight took a boat, resting a gently twisted ankle that now seems ready for tomorrow’s hike.
The mist stayed with us for much of today's hike, spritzing without soaking us as we walked a ridge. It invited us to focus inward, recalling the views from previous visits as the world around us faded in and out of view.
A rest day: comfortably glamping off the grid for a couple of nights over a ridge from Queen Charlotte Sound. Here's the view from our bedroom hut as I settle in for a nap: our kitchen hut (with a dishwasher!) with Kenepuru Sound beyond. In the mornings, the owner brings freshly baked bread and croissants, and in the evenings, a from-scratch pizza. *Modern conveniences, indeed.
Continued hiking the Queen Charlotte Track, passing lovely mossy rock walls and lush epiphytes. Ridges offered great views of the sounds on both sides, with enough climbing to make it feel like a true hike rather than a walk in the park. A beautiful day on the trail, interrupted by a comfortable resort hotel for the night.
Queen Charlotte Sound to our left and Kenepuru Sound to our right, the trail proceeds between the two, offering lovely views. Another hour or two of hiking and we’ll reach the Te Mahia Bay Resort, our comfy doss for the night.
The Cougar Line boat arrived to collect us for our return to Picton after the final section of our hike. It was another day of lovely wooded trails that sheltered us from the sun, offering views of coves, mossy rocks, and vegetation indigenous to New Zealand. Whenever we encountered other hikers, they were invariably in a good mood, and so were we.
Arrival of the inbound kite, a sturdy ATR 72 turboprop, for our wizard flight to Auckland from Marlborough Airport (BHE). Hoping for no flak (turbulence) en route. (Word choices inspired by Biggles, fictional WW1 and WW2 British pilot.)
High tide at our Auckland home for the next month. We plan to just relax here, doing things that locals do at the weekend. We’ll manage easily without a car, relying on our feet, public transit, and the occasional Uber. Today we stocked up at the local Woolworths supermarket, a step up from the dingy Woolworths I remember from my childhood.
Our dead-end road leads to a coastal path, but high tide had other plans for us. We detoured a few blocks over to pick up the trail through parks and urban stretches. A few miles later, we looped back to the start via train and bus.
A massive cruise ship dwarfed the Island Direct Waiheke Island ferry. With 5,000 passengers suddenly in town for the day and a long holiday weekend approaching, the ferry lines were daunting. We quickly abandoned our plan to hike on Waiheke and instead trekked several miles back home, following the coastline for much of the way. Next week will be much quieter for our Waiheke hike.
We didn't need to line up for the ferry from Hobsonville back to Auckland. Earlier today, we’d traveled to Hobsonville by city bus and, after a delicious lunch, hiked the trail that circles the town. William Hobson, the town's namesake, was the first governor of New Zealand and a co-author of the Treaty of Waitangi, which he and several Māori chiefs signed on February 6, 1840. Today is Waitangi Day, a public holiday.
A goal of our month in Auckland is to live like the locals do. Today, we walked a large loop that took us past a lively community center. In one room, there was a flower show; in another, a cake social. A cake social! We opted for a long black and a flat white served from a coffee truck. Later, at our neighborhood French cafe, the server asked if we had moved into the area. Their food is so good, we keep going back.
Our urban walk took us to a different community center today, where we stocked up on veggies at the Sunday farmers market. A truck served a decent flat white and a long black, which we sipped while nibbling those tiny bananas you only find near where they’re grown. At lunch, the cafe seemed to be attracting characters straight out of British sitcom archives: namely, Mrs. Slocombe (Are You Being Served?) and Violet (Vicious).
Ferry to Waiheke Island, followed by a coastal trek: steep up, steep down, repeat. Revived by a fine mid-afternoon lunch of grilled fish overlooking the water. Waiheke’s own Passage Rock Pinot Gris made the revival complete.
We’ve been in Auckland for ten days, and we finally walked onto the beach directly in front of our rental. Normally the tide has been in when we wanted to go exploring. Today we stuck to our Point Chevalier neighborhood rather than exploring further. Wandering along the peninsula, we found sandy stretches, parks, a great view of downtown, and yet another decent hole-in-the-wall cafe.
Today’s adventure was the Auckland Botanical Gardens, with the added bonus of taking the train to get there. While I found it a lovely place for a stroll, Dwight was taking it in on a deeper level. He spotted several plants he recognized from the university greenhouse back home. Here, he’s fully immersed in the native plantings along a trail designed to teach visitors how to identify the local flora.
The greater Auckland area is full of peninsulas, sometimes featuring scenic trails, a ferry port, and great lunch spots. Today was one of those days. We took a fast bus to the start of the trail at Takapuna then walked to Devonport through parks and residential areas. After a late lunch in Devonport, we caught the ferry back to Auckland. In this photo, we’re crossing a mangrove swamp.
Caught some stand-up comedy as part of Auckland’s Pride Month. The venue was wonderful: the Aviation Hall at the Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT). Our backdrop for the night was a 1945 Belfast-built flying boat, once used by the Royal New Zealand Air Force for maritime search and rescue.
Attended a wonderful session at the Auckland War Memorial Museum featuring seven Māori, a model for how to educate people about an indigenous culture. Later, we took an audio tour of about a dozen artifacts scattered throughout the museum, each with a queer story to tell. Here, I'm learning about Labour Party representative Louisa Wall, who was wearing this dress when the Marriage Amendment Bill was passed in 2013.
Joined a docent-led art walk from the Auckland Art Gallery through downtown to the harbor. Since the group was all locals, we dove straight into the deep end. Our docent expertly connected several public installations by Māori artists to foundational myths and the origins of Aotearoa (New Zealand). (The audio receivers shown in the photo let us hear the commentary clearly over the bustle of the city.)
Walked across New Zealand from coast to coast today. It was at a narrow point: starting at Auckland Harbor and heading southeast to a harbor on the other side. I took these photos from Maungawhau / Mount Eden, the highest point in the city. The top photo looks back toward where we started this morning, while the bottom photo looks ahead toward this afternoon's hike. Along the way, we wound through several parks, past Aucklanders out enjoying their Sunday.
We scoured the map for a place we had yet to visit, somewhere reachable by ferry that offered a scenic walk and a good lunch. When Dwight spotted a restaurant called Hello Sailor, our trip to Half Moon Bay was settled. We took a bus toward the end of a peninsula, then walked along the coastline to the bay for a fresh fish lunch at the restaurant, which sits directly opposite this enormous marina. Afterward, a ferry carried us back to Auckland.
Spent the day at MOTAT, Auckland's transport and technology museum. This Meccano (Erector set) differential analyzer, built at the University of Manchester in 1934, is an analog computer that solves differential equations. I still have my childhood Meccano (and my dad’s from his childhood), but not enough to replicate this. I've considered building a LEGO version, but suspect gear backlash would defeat me.
On a ferry ride the other day we were staring at the coastline to the east of downtown Auckland and realized we had never visited it. Today we took a bus along the coast then walked back towards downtown, including various beaches, Mission Bay, and a city park named after New Zealand's first Labour prime minister. Here, towards the end of our walk, we've cut through a Māori community to be presented with this view of our destination.
Decided to take it easy today with a little walk to the park and beach at the end of the peninsula where we’re staying. Along the way, "little libraries" offered free books. For many years now, we’ve built an ebook library we can carry with us everywhere. Right now, Dwight is reading a novel downloaded from Amazon, while I’ve checked out my novel online from the Hennepin County Library back home.
We took the ferry to Tiritiri Matangi Island, about 20 miles from downtown Auckland. The entire island is a nature reserve, home to restored native bush and bird species once thought extinct. We spent three hours hiking the coastal trails that ring the island. The birdsong was magical: we got to hear sounds that were once thought lost forever.
Went for a walk from our home for the month, eventually joining the lovely Oakley Creek (Te Auaunga) Path. The trail follows a winding stream wrapped in carefully restored native bush; the city was all around us, yet stayed completely invisible from the floor of the deep gully.
Today it was time for something different: two nights away at Piha, on the Tasman Sea within the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park. Just 20 miles from the home we’re renting, it feels like a world apart with a distinct off-the-grid vibe. After a stroll along the seafront past the weekend surfers, we hiked up a hill, and "up" was certainly the operative word. The views, however, rewarded the climb.
Hiked more beautiful bush trails today: again up, up, up. It’s impossible to pick just one photo to encapsulate the beauty here, so here's a waterfall we passed this morning.
Morning walk along the black sand beach at the end of our two-night stay in Piha, a world away from Auckland, just a 45-minute Uber ride.
Volcanic Rangitoto Island erupted from the sea just 600 years ago. We spent several hours hiking past native bush rapidly establishing itself across the lava fields, eventually reaching the summit for panoramic views.
We took the city bus out to Soljans Estate Winery, where we started with a tasting of five different wines. Next, in the restaurant, we sat down for a delicious lunch (I had grilled fish) paired with our favorite of the day, the Pinot Gris. Everything was top-tier quality; the only downside is that they don’t distribute their wines in the US.
Another day, another walk through native bush. Today was the Puhinui Stream Forest Trail in Totara Park, located right next to the Auckland Botanic Gardens we explored a couple of weeks ago.
Today is Saturday in Auckland, the final day of Pride Month. Our hostess for the day, the fabulous Buckwheat, introduced the music at the Auckland Art Gallery’s Pride Festival this morning. It was a rare sight to see a drag queen so early in the day. Later, we observed the Auckland Rainbow Community Choir rehearsing a program inspired by gay icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Liza Minnelli, and Lady Gaga.
We rented a couple of bikes from a local business that seemed to specialize in salvaging old bicycles. While we waited, they put the finishing touches on our rides and sent us on our way. They were inexpensive, about US$6 each for the day, but we definitely got what we paid for. Eventually, I found the one "perfect" gear combination where the chain didn't fall off the derailleurs and stuck with it for the rest of the day.
After a 35-minute high-speed ferry to Pine Harbour on the edge of Auckland, we took a bus through rolling farmland. We then walked back to the harbour via coastal trails, bush paths, and residential areas, enjoying lovely views across the Hauraki Gulf.
Walked the 5km Hobsonville Coastal Walkway, which loops around a former Air Force base. Over the last 20 years, the area has been transformed into mostly high-density housing, over 4,000 homes when complete, two schools, restaurants and bars. Developers have offset the footprint with extensive parklands, bush, and trails. It ensures no one is ever far from nature or the water, while a ferry terminal offers a scenic commute to downtown Auckland.
Now at Auckland Airport where I made a point of stopping by this LEGO model of Auckland Airport. Completed this year to mark the airport’s 60th anniversary, it showcases the original 1966 airport (not shown here) alongside this 2029 vision, when a new domestic terminal will be integrated with the international terminal.
Arrived LAX early this morning off a flight from New Zealand. Skipped the in-flight breakfast, made up for that at LAX with avocado toasts and champagne. It was a good trip.
Walked over to Open Book for a cuppa. The folks at the Minnesota Center for Book Arts had been busy at the letterpress; a "please take one" sign sat beside a now-nonexistent pile of protest posters. It reminded me of our recent travels: whenever people asked where we were from, "Minneapolis, Minnesota" always drew a warm, informed response. "The US," less so.