Next year, we're joining two friends in the UK to hike the Rob Roy Way in Scotland. We're thankful we can still manage a long-distance trail, even if it means more hotels (I booked nine today) due to shorter daily sections as we get older.
Since I was a child I’ve had a soft spot for British Ordnance Survey maps; the 1:25,000 detail is perfect for the inn-to-inn hike we've planned for Scotland this April. However, after struggling with the Ordnance Survey website today, I switched back to Grough Routes. It’s a much more professional mapping application that uses the same high-quality mapping data.
Later this month, we’ll hike the Rob Roy Way in Scotland. I abandoned Sir Walter Scott’s Rob Roy, irritated by the convoluted prose and historical inventions. Instead, I found a solid history book and used it, along with Wikipedia, to map out some actual locations (as blue pins) from Rob Roy’s life. Red pins mark our hotels. The Clachan Inn, once owned by his sister, is the only Rob Roy pin on our trail, so we will have to sample it.
Over the years, we’ve learned to travel light with just carry-on backpacks, even for month-long trips. For our Scotland hike, we're bringing hiking poles, which must be checked. Dwight found a sturdy, 3-ply box in our building’s recycling area, which turned out to be just the right size despite my doubts. In Glasgow, we’ll swap the poles for our noise-canceling headphones and other items we won’t need on the trail, then mail the box to a post office to collect at the end of our hike.
Headed over to REI Co-op to freshen up our hiking wardrobe. Clothes shopping at a brick-and-mortar usually isn't my thing, but I make an exception for hiking gear. Besides, I was almost out of bike chain lubricant, and they carry that too.
It’s Sausage Saturday, which means sausage, cabbage, and a movie with ice cream at intermission. Tonight’s feature is Rob Roy (1995) and his 'fight against a corrupt aristocracy,' a story that feels relevant for our times. Set in 1712 and 1713, the plot follows the fallout after money lent to Rob Roy is stolen. While the 'baddie' is an invention, the performance nearly won an Oscar, so we’re expecting a well-told tale filled with 'epic Highland sword battles.'
One-pint Ziploc freezer bags are essential travel gear. They protect our passports and phones, and will allow us to use our devices safely in the inevitable Scottish rain. They’ve been difficult to find since the pandemic, but yesterday I managed to order a bunch at a good price from Amazon. After our Sunday morning walk, we found them waiting for us in the package room.
Set up trackers for our upcoming trip: D and T for our backpacks; 1 to track a cardboard box we'll check in at MSP then mail from Glasgow. The rectangular tracker goes in my wallet. (The total weight for the four devices is 1.5 ounces, 43 grams.)
OMG, etc. Glasgow (Scotland) is hopping tonight. We arrived today and were originally planning on a quiet beer and a light bite for dinner, but the city had other ideas. We took the opportunity to ride the delightfully diminutive subway to a slightly quieter neighborhood instead. As a kid, I absolutely loved riding the Glasgow subway, and I still do.
Our walk today held quite a few surprises. At the Glasgow Necropolis we happened upon the grave of William Miller, the 'laureate of the nursery' and author of Wee Willie Winkie. Behind it, Glasgow Cathedral dominates the skyline.
We're now in Drymen, near Loch Lomond, joined by two UK friends, ready to hike the Rob Roy Way for the next eight days. Dinner tonight was at a pub originally owned by Rob Roy’s sister, a thematic start to our adventure.
Glimpsed layers of countryside from an often wooded trail on day one of our Rob Roy Way hike along the southern edge of Trossachs National Park. Tonight we’re in Aberfoyle with seven more days of walking ahead. We can still walk as far as we ever did, it just takes us a few more days.
The terrain was wilder today as we walked from Aberfoyle to Callander: all moorland, lochs, and rolling hills with great views. We agreed that some of our photos look like something off chocolate box lids, almost too picturesque, but that’s how it looked.
Our entire hike today, from Callander to Strathyre, was on a rail trail. We followed a fast-flowing river and a long loch surrounded by wild hills. Along the way, we passed waterfalls and mossy banks. Large slices of cake and a pot of tea sustained us at the end of the trail before we checked into an inn for the night.
This isn’t the kind of weather we reasonably expected in the Highlands at this time of year: blue skies and temperatures rising to the low 70s as we hiked to Killin for the night. With no rain forecast for our entire trip, our rain capes remain in our backpacks, and we’re left to enjoy the superb scenery.
We climbed up to this loch, which was created by a dam. From here, the water rushes downhill through a tunnel to a hydroelectric plant. Throughout the journey, I’ve been impressed by the scale of the engineering; yesterday, we followed an abandoned hillside railroad, and on another day, passed a Victorian aqueduct built for Glasgow’s water supply. While this dam dates from the 1950s, contrails stretching across the sky offered a nod to even newer technologies.
"£20 for an early check-in," they said, at a resort in Kenmore at the foot of Loch Tay at the end of day six of our hike. Or, about £14 for beverages from the bar while enjoying this view of Loch Tay from the patio. We opted for the obvious and saved £6 while waiting.
It’s day 7 of 8 on our Rob Roy Way hike. We’ve settled into a comfortable routine: arriving at our destination by mid-afternoon, just in time for a pot of tea and some cake. Today we reached Aberfeldy after a day of stunning views and more waterfalls than we could count. A cuppa and a slice of cake were exactly what we needed before checking into our hotel for a pre-dinner nap.
We reached the end of our hike in Pitlochry after yet another day of "good everything": the hiking, the views, the weather, and the company. It was here I bade farewell to my boots; the soles were simply too worn for another stint. They’ve served me well, but their journey ends here. Already, the four of us are talking about our next multi-day trek.
Dwight and I are now in Edinburgh, having bade our friends a temporary farewell. We’re staying in the university area, which we prefer to the overloved city center. Always on the lookout for something we haven't seen before, we walked over to this former railroad tunnel; built in 1831, it is now part of the National Cycle Network.
I first walked across the Firth of Forth on this suspension bridge with my brother shortly after it opened in 1964. By 2018, its role was largely taken over by the cable-stayed bridge just visible on the top-right. Today, we first crossed by train on the 1890 cantilever bridge to the left; here, we're walking back across the 1964 bridge.
I'm now in Newcastle upon Tyne, my hometown. Much of the city center is still recognizable from my childhood, just more spiffed up. At Fenwick department store's toy department I picked up a DUPLO set for the almost two-year-old grandchild of the friends I'm staying with.
It took all five adults, two wedges, and a rubber mallet to remove one panel so other panels could be slotted in to complete this Little Tikes slide. The little tike was happy, though.
This is one over-the-top fish and chip restaurant at the seaside in Whitley Bay's Spanish City. I met my brother for a late lunch, followed by a bracing walk along the seafront to the Rendezvous Cafe, which is sometimes featured in the Vera TV series. There was no Vera sighting, but we did enjoy some cups of tea and cake.
This is one of my happy places: Economy seats on an A330, exit row, two-across. Often these seats get a thumbs-down because of their proximity to the lavatories, but at my age, that’s a plus. I book early and then rebook if the price goes down. Over the years, I’ve had many lovely conversations with flight attendants sitting in the jump seat opposite. Today, we fly home.
Spent the morning prepping for future travels, knocking out tasks that once would have required a physical trip, all from the comfort of home. I ordered new hiking boots from REI, an updated version of my worn-out pair that keeps the essential wide toe box. I also renewed my expiring US passport online; surprisingly, I didn't even have to mail in the old one. However, we're not quite ready for a robot to steal the zen of cleaning gear, especially Dwight’s improvised drying system.