Our trail included more beautiful beaches, a pub lunch, and dramatic views of Dunstanburgh Castle, on our way to the fishing village of Craster. Local curing sheds and smokehouses transform North Sea herring into kippers, my choice for breakfast tomorrow.
Category: Place
South to Seahouses
Continued walking towards the North Sea, catching glimpses of Lindisfarne (Holy Island) in the distance. We’re now heading south on the Northumberland Coast Path for four days. Here, we chose to walk the beach for the last mile to Seahouses, where we’re spending tonight.
Towards the North Sea
Much of our route today followed St. Cuthbert’s Way, a trail named after the 7th-century monk, bishop, and hermit who is revered as the patron saint of Northumberland. We’re standing in front of a cave where legend says his coffin was temporarily hidden from Danish raiders in the 9th century.
Start of an Inn-to-Inn Hike
Two friends have joined us for a multi-day Inn-to-Inn hike in Northumberland, England. Tomorrow we’ll start out from the Black Bull Inn, Wooler, where we have rooms for the night.
No Leaks Here
Walked under the River Tyne where pedestrians and cyclists get separate tunnels. As a kid in the 1950’s, this was exciting especially after a friend of my dad’s told me they’d found a leek in the tunnel. Back then, shipyards lined the Tyne, and 20,000 people a day crossed here.
The Reckoning
Back in the 1950s, the store on the right sold knitting supplies, and the owners lived upstairs. When I was in grade school, the little girl who lived there invited me to her birthday party. At the party she selected who would be invited the following year. I didn’t make the list and was OK with that.
Lunch
Lightly sea-salted crisps for Dwight, sweet chili and red pepper crisps for me, washed down with 20-fluid-ounce beers. Earlier we had full English breakfasts. The rose is real.
Plenty Good Enough
After the flight, then a long walk along the Thames, checked into Goodenough (postgraduate) College, Bloomsbury, London. Our surprisingly spacious en suite couples room has a sitting area and a view of the quadrangle. Windows open, no traffic noise, just the happy sounds of a croquet game.
UK 2023
More journeys ≫
In the Footsteps of Border Raiders, a Saint, and Vera
Next week, my partner, two friends, and I will be walking a section of the Reivers Way in Northumberland, England, from inn to inn over five days. Click through for some background to the trail, including Vera (a popular UK television series) locations along the beautiful and rugged coastline.