Hiking Oshima Island

A train, a bus, and one of these ferries took us to Oshima, the island in the distance in the Sea of Japan. Hiked to the highest peak, then improvised the rest of the hike after discovering the path had been blocked by a landslide.

Hiking the new Shingu–Tachibana OLLE Course

Our flight from Tokyo landed us in Fukuoka by 9:30 AM, with a great view of Mt. Fuji along the way. Hiked a new Kyushu OLLE course, opened in October, following blue and red trail markers. Having hiked most of the OLLE trails over the years, I appreciated the new path, even if our hike didn’t always follow the intended route. The day included a local train from Fukuoka, a ride on a community bus (about US$0.65), views of the Sea of Japan, ancient shrines, and bamboo groves.

Spur-of-the-moment trip

Just 48 hours ago we hadn’t decided if we’d go to Japan. Then, after medical appointments for Dwight and me, with no follow-ups in the next couple weeks, we said “why not?” So, here we are, about to board a Minneapolis MSP to Tokyo HND flight. From Tokyo, we’ll fly to Fukuoka on Kyushu (the most southerly of Japan’s four main islands) then take a convoluted route riding the rails back toward Tokyo.

Hiking the Karatsu OLLE course

It took 3 trains and a bus to reach the trailhead for a Kyushu OLLE hike, but that’s part of the fun. It’s getting harder to find a course I haven’t hiked. I followed special markers past rice paddies, through the ruins of an enormous castle, and through rural villages. Here, I imagined I would be one of the peasants in feudal times, carrying the local Daimyo (lord) in a palanquin.

Day trip to Kagoshima

Took a bullet train 180 miles to Kagoshima for the afternoon. Recent visits had been washouts, but today I wandered in shirtsleeves, getting reacquainted with Sengan-en (extensive garden with views across Kagoshima Bay to Sakurajima, an active volcano), the harbor with boats going to unique places like Tanegashima (Japan’s space port), Saigo Takamori (the last Samurai), and a lovely public library atop a department store for a cuppa.

Hakata (tonkotsu) ramen for introverts.

I’m staying next to Hakata Station, a district of Fukuoka, so, of course I had Hakata-style ramen for dinner. The creamy broth is made from pork bones, cooked at a rolling boil for an extended period, 12 to 60 hours, depending on the recipe. I ordered and paid at a touchscreen at the entrance. When the meal was ready, the flap at the back of the cubicle rose up, and hands appeared bearing the meal. Eye contact was impossible.

Unexpected snow, hike abandoned

I was met with icy blasts as I got off the bus at the trailhead bus stop, and after only a few hundred yards, I abandoned the ascent. Though a comfortable climb I’ve done three times before, today was not the day. There was no snow atop Mt. Yufu this morning, but this afternoon was a different story, as seen in this photo from Yufuin’s main drag.

Simple comforts in Yufuin: a ryokan stay

Checked into a ryokan (traditional inn) in Yufuin, on the island of Kyushu. My room has this personal onsen with free-flowing water from a hot spring (that’s steam!) and I’ll be sleeping on a futon on tatami mats. At US$170 per day, the value is excellent, as it includes a multi-course dinner and breakfast. The tree in full bloom is a Judas Tree (or Chinese Redbud), fitting for Holy Week.

Exploring Kyushu

It’s been a rainy day, a good day to travel by bullet and local trains from Okayama (1) to Kyushu, one of Japan’s four main islands. I’m staying in the onsen town of Yufuin (2) for two nights then I’ll stay in Fukuoka (3) as a base for day trips.