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I’m on a fast train when I see a single train track peeling off into the distance. I want to go where that track is going. Maybe the end of that single track is a remote place I can use as the start of an “Ekikhara hike,” a hike from a train station. Beyond the… Continue reading End of the Line

Rice Field #1 Today, I explored part of the plain that bisects Sado Island (an island in the Sea of Japan, off northern Honshu, Japan). Walking on level ground gave my knees a rest after walking up a mountain the previous day. Beyond wanting to be in the countryside, I didn’t have a specific plan.… Continue reading Plain Views of Sado Island

The moon and sun are eternal travelers. Even the years wander on. A lifetime adrift in a boat, or in old age leading a tired horse into the years, every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home. From the earliest times there have always been some who perished along the road. Still I have always been drawn by wind-blown clouds into dreams of a lifetime of wandering.

Just after you enter the grounds of a Japanese temple, there’s always a fountain for ritualistic rinsing of hands and sometimes the mouth. Here’s examples from the temples I visited April 2, 2014 when I walked the route of part of the Shikoku Henro pilgrimage (“Shikoku 88”).  I wrote a similar post in 2013 when I… Continue reading Temple Plumbing 2014

OK I admit it: I got tired of figuring out this place all on my own, so I signed up for a “Landmarks and Viewpoints” tour for foreign visitors. This was a day to forget. At exactly the appointed time the bus rolled up to my Okoyama (Honshu) $26 a night capsule hotel (Hotel River… Continue reading A Day to Forget

A night in a capsule hotel is a uniquely Japanese experience. Reception on left, shoe lockers on right You could arrive with no luggage, just what you’re standing in. After a decent night’s sleep you leave next morning, well-rested, bathed, and fed, in freshly laundered clothes. $26 a night, including tax, gets you a clean,… Continue reading A Night in a Capsule Hotel

A Shared Culture When I’m in Japan I feel happiest and most comfortable when I’m hiking. When I pass another hiker in rain gear on the trail, a cheery “konnichiwa” is enough said. We look at each other, knowing we are sharing the same experience. A shared culture across different cultures lets me belong. Pursuit… Continue reading Passing Through Cedar

This week I move from an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean to an island on the edge of the East China Sea: from Hawaii Big Island to the little island of Yakushima, Southern Japan (195 square miles, population 13,178).